Upgrading Alpine "woofer"

[Yedi]

Tired of the factory Alpine woofer just not hacking it for my bass needs..

I don't want to butcher this stereo system or loose any factory features. I'm gonna try to get some 8" sub spacers from eBay, and the shallowest sub I can find, which is only 2 voice coils so I will an extra channel from the factory amp.

Not sure if the amp will work with an open channel, or if it needs a load? Don't think it's plausible to "bridge" the 3 into 2, unless someone else has any light to shed on this?

These trucks have been out long enough and there is no aftermarket for the new Body 19' besides enclosures for under the seat. Will update this thread when I start this project..

 

[Billet1500 4x4]

Tired of the factory Alpine woofer just not hacking it for my bass needs..

I don't want to butcher this stereo system or loose any factory features. I'm gonna try to get some 8" sub spacers from eBay, and the shallowest sub I can find, which is only 2 voice coils so I will an extra channel from the factory amp.

Not sure if the amp will work with an open channel, or if it needs a load? Don't think it's plausible to "bridge" the 3 into 2, unless someone else has any light to shed on this?

These trucks have been out long enough and there is no aftermarket for the new Body 19' besides enclosures for under the seat. Will update this thread when I start this project..

You cannot bridge the 3 channels into one or two, If they were single ended any imbalance between the channels will back feed and try to drive the op amps in the other circuits, however in the Alpine system each channel is already floating with signal on both the positive and negative wires so bridging is definitely out since each channel is already BTL. Theoretically with the right circuit all 3 could be combined in what would be considered bridged parallel versus bridge tie load.

 

[JasonB]

Im not one for lots of bass , but when I upgrades the stock alpine speakers there was a noticeable increase in base from my doors. I do not feel like the alpine sub needs upgraded anymore after doing all 9 speakers

 

[Yedi]

You cannot bridge the 3 channels into one or two, If they were single ended any imbalance between the channels will back feed and try to drive the op amps in the other circuits, however in the Alpine system each channel is already floating with signal on both the positive and negative wires so bridging is definitely out since each channel is already BTL. Theoretically with the right circuit all 3 could be combined in what would be considered bridged parallel versus bridge tie load.

thanks for verifying what I was thinking. Makes sense

 

[Hackmunch]

you can use 2 out of the 3 bass channels for a dvc sub. just dont use the extra set of speaker wires. i have done it with no issues.

 

[Yedi]

Well after driving to work today listening to "how low can you go" with volume at 23 with bass set at +4 and the sub started popping again, I figured it's now or never, here's what I ordered.

2 ohm DVC sub, and some spacers. We'll see how this works, if nothing else I'll modify/rebuild the stock enclosure for this new sub. This isn't my first rodeo with car audio, although it's probably the longest I've left a stock system in one of my vehicles

 

[Billet1500 4x4]

you can use 2 out of the 3 bass channels for a dvc sub. just dont use the extra set of speaker wires. i have done it with no issues.

I remember you posting that in one of the other threads quite a while back. Are you still running that setup, What DVC sub were you powering?

 

[Yedi]

Here it is, it can be done. Replaced factory sub with this Pioneer shallow mount, used a spacer from Amazon I previously posted, and had to make another adapter to mount the spacer to, as the opening was too big. I don't think a 10" sub would fit though.


Sounds good, isn't any "louder" than the stock sub, probably because I lost a channel and am only using two for the DVC sub. Ok

Bass is cleaner and lower, no distortion even after turning bass all the way up.

My plan is to use the extra channel from the amp as a signal for an additional amp one day when I add some real bass back there. Just don't have the cash right now to do the system I want to.

So here it is, it can be done. Probably not worth the hassle, but I wanted to try it and didn't cost me alot. No more popping from woofer now so that's good.

 

[Hackmunch]

I remember you posting that in one of the other threads quite a while back. Are you still running that setup, What DVC sub were you powering?

i was using a ultimax 10" in an underseat box i built. it was d2 coil configuration. im not running that setup anymore. now im running a PSI platform 3 10" underseat on a taramps bass 3k amp. the ultimax 10" on the factory amp actually sounded good, just way underpowered.

 

[Hackmunch]

that stock sub doesnt look like a 10" how much deeper is the 8" pioneer?

 

[Yedi]

that stock sub doesnt look like a 10" how much deeper is the 8" pioneer?

Don't know exactly. The spacers I bought are 3/4" thick, and the adapter I made is just shy of 3/4"

Two very different subs if you compare the two side by side. Stock sub weighs almost nothing compared to the pioneer. Amazing stock sounded as good as it did. Pioneer is just underpowered now in too small of a box

 

[reggiejp3]

Thanks for doing this. I have been contemplating it. I see you say it probably wasn't worth the effort, but is it a noticeable difference to where you are happier with it? How hard was it getting the box out from behind the back seat? I really want better bass and am willing to do the work if it provides a decent gain in sound quality. I don't want to do a system under the back seat as I use all that storage area. Thanks again.

 

[Yedi]

Thanks for doing this. I have been contemplating it. I see you say it probably wasn't worth the effort, but is it a noticeable difference to where you are happier with it? How hard was it getting the box out from behind the back seat? I really want better bass and am willing to do the work if it provides a decent gain in sound quality. I don't want to do a system under the back seat as I use all that storage area. Thanks again.

Drove the truck for the first time today after doing the install. Not worth it. Less bass for sure. Maybe if I had a different amp hooked to the sub would be better, but the box is just too small for any serious sound. I need some low lows, and some punch... I'm going to be getting a box for 2 10's from fox accoustics, possibly Skar subs, and a pioneer GM series amp. Just don't have time right now as we are moving. Will do this late fall probably/early winter .

 

[Yedi]

The rear seat is pretty easy to remove as is the sub box. This is my second time removing both, did the kilmat deadening and polyfil first time.

 

[cdbauhs]

Here it is, it can be done. Replaced factory sub with this Pioneer shallow mount, used a spacer from Amazon I previously posted, and had to make another adapter to mount the spacer to, as the opening was too big. I don't think a 10" sub would fit though.


Sounds good, isn't any "louder" than the stock sub, probably because I lost a channel and am only using two for the DVC sub. Ok

Bass is cleaner and lower, no distortion even after turning bass all the way up.

My plan is to use the extra channel from the amp as a signal for an additional amp one day when I add some real bass back there. Just don't have the cash right now to do the system I want to.

So here it is, it can be done. Probably not worth the hassle, but I wanted to try it and didn't cost me alot. No more popping from woofer now so that's good.
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Im looking at just adding a sub and amp to the existingi

Here it is, it can be done. Replaced factory sub with this Pioneer shallow mount, used a spacer from Amazon I previously posted, and had to make another adapter to mount the spacer to, as the opening was too big. I don't think a 10" sub would fit though.


Sounds good, isn't any "louder" than the stock sub, probably because I lost a channel and am only using two for the DVC sub. Ok

Bass is cleaner and lower, no distortion even after turning bass all the way up.

My plan is to use the extra channel from the amp as a signal for an additional amp one day when I add some real bass back there. Just don't have the cash right now to do the system I want to.

So here it is, it can be done. Probably not worth the hassle, but I wanted to try it and didn't cost me alot. No more popping from woofer now so that's good.
View attachment 34464 View attachment 34465 View attachment 34464 View attachment 34465 View attachment 34467 View attachment 34468 View attachment 34470 View attachment 34471

Im looking at just adding a sub and amp under the rear seat. Any suggestions on which of the factory sub wires I can tap into in order to keep the factory sub running along with my add on sub?

 

[jdefoe0424]

Im looking at just adding a sub and amp under the rear seat. Any suggestions on which of the factory sub wires I can tap into in order to keep the factory sub running along with my add on sub?

If I were you, I wouldn't run both. They could "fight" each other and you could have weird cancellation at various frequencies. If I had the time and space, I would do my own custom fiberglass enclosure behind the seat and replace the entire factory assembly.
Use a LOC on one channel, as I assume all 3 are the same signal, and install your favorite aftermarket amp and sub.

 

[Yedi]

little update here...I have noticed more of a low rumbling while cruising, pretty sure its the ANC and with the different sub, its a lot lower frequency now. I'll be disconnecting the mic wires and see how thst affects the system. Still planning on adding an amp and subs regardless

 

[chithead]

Wonder how much room is behind the seat there to build a new enclosure that better suits that sub, or a pair of them (possibly one on each side).

 

[Yedi]

Wonder how much room is behind the seat there to build a new enclosure that better suits that sub, or a pair of them (possibly one on each side).

theres room. don't think its worth the effort messing with it, when places like Fox Acoustics make several options for under the seat boxes.
The alpine is a strange system, Ive spent more time driving and listening the the differences with the new sub. some stuff sounds really good, nice and deep and clean, other songs are total garbage, Pretty sure I have a good plan to upgrade this system for some serious sound from all the posts on here Ive read, and my own research. just time and money..

 

[chithead]

Time, and money... EXACTLY. It definitely takes both to fix this mess. I have every other aspect of the audio upgrade ready, just can't decide on what to do about the subwoofer. Seems like FOX and MTI make good solutions for the trucks, if you don't mind setting them on floor. I knew right away it wouldn't be an option, because of the awesome weather mat in there. Definitely want the subwoofer floating above it, to make for easy removal to clean the mat if necessary.

Curious if it would be possible to fit an enclosure and a shallow mount subwoofer behind the rear seat to allow all the under seat space for hauling things.