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Quick Crash Course on 4x4 shifting

Starkhaus

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I’ve just recently got a new truck, first 4x4 I’ve owned. I wanted to ask what situations are best for what “mode” on the 4x4 switcher.

Like when to use 4WD Auto, when to use low and high, when to push the center neutral button.

When/how (aside from pushing the button I know that much lol) to properly switch between 2wd and 4wd to ensure no issues.
 

HSKR R/T

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I’ve just recently got a new truck, first 4x4 I’ve owned. I wanted to ask what situations are best for what “mode” on the 4x4 switcher.

Like when to use 4WD Auto, when to use low and high, when to push the center neutral button.

When/how (aside from pushing the button I know that much lol) to properly switch between 2wd and 4wd to ensure no issues.
Except for 4-low you can switch anytime you want. 4-low you need to be in neutral.

As far a when to use them, that all depends on how good you can drive. 99% of the time you should be able to get around just fine in 2wd. If the roads are slick, 4-auto would be good for the average driver. It basically just makes the truck AWD. It will engage the front wheels anytime it senses the rear tires slipping.

4-high is more for off roading when there is poor traction. You don't want to use 4-high on dry pavement, especially when making turns if you don't want to shorten the life of your transfer case.

4-lo is extreme off road conditions where traction is very poor, or you are doing light rock crawling
 

Starkhaus

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Except for 4-low you can switch anytime you want. 4-low you need to be in neutral.

As far a when to use them, that all depends on how good you can drive. 99% of the time you should be able to get around just fine in 2wd. If the roads are slick, 4-auto would be good for the average driver. It basically just makes the truck AWD. It will engage the front wheels anytime it senses the rear tires slipping.

4-high is more for off roading when there is poor traction. You don't want to use 4-high on dry pavement, especially when making turns if you don't want to shorten the life of your transfer case.

4-lo is extreme off road conditions where traction is very poor, or you are doing light rock crawling
So by switch anytime you want do you mean while actively driving too? I can’t see a reason why you would want to do that but I feel like at a full stop is the best time to switch around.

As for 4-lo you mean push the neutral button in the center before switching right? Or do you mean put the main gear shift in neutral?

Sounds like 4-auto is all I’ll probably need unless I end up in a situation.
 

Richard320

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You push the center neutral button if you need to flat-tow the truck. Transfer case goes to neutral and you can put trans in park, because it will probably do it anyway with the key off.

4auto is for around town when you might hit some slick pavement from rain or snow.
4 hi is dirt roads, maybe deep snow. Never on dry pavement.
4 lo is when you need lots and lots of torque and real low speed, like rock-crawling in Moab. It will be some time before you are ready for that, so don't sweat the low range.
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HSKR R/T

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So by switch anytime you want do you mean while actively driving too? I can’t see a reason why you would want to do that but I feel like at a full stop is the best time to switch around.

As for 4-lo you mean push the neutral button in the center before switching right? Or do you mean put the main gear shift in neutral?

Sounds like 4-auto is all I’ll probably need unless I end up in a situation.
I am at the drag strip right now with my truck. When I run the full 1/4 miles I launch in 4-high so I don't spin, then switch to 2wd after it shifts into 2nd gear. You can switch between 2wd, 4-auto, and 4-high at any speed while moving. No issues. The transfer case is designed for it, and the computer will only allow the shift if it's safe.
 

Starkhaus

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You push the center neutral button if you need to flat-tow the truck. Transfer case goes to neutral and you can put trans in park, because it will probably do it anyway with the key off.

4auto is for around town when you might hit some slick pavement from rain or snow.
4 hi is dirt roads, maybe deep snow. Never on dry pavement.
4 lo is when you need lots and lots of torque and real low speed, like rock-crawling in Moab. It will be some time before you are ready for that, so don't sweat the low range.
maxresdefault.jpg
So 4-hi rather than 4-auto would be better for say like mountain dirt roads? Like a cabin neighborhood type of dirt roads
 

Richard320

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So 4-hi rather than 4-auto would be better for say like mountain dirt roads? Like a cabin neighborhood type of dirt roads
Are they just unpaved but smooth, as in the neighbors have no trouble driving in and out on a Honda Civic? 2WD is probably okay, 4 auto is fine, 4 hi is probably overkill but hurts nothing. If the dirt road is an unmaintained thing full of washouts where slippage is pretty much ensured, why wait for the auto? Just go 4 high.
 

Darksteel165

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All the posts here are good so far but I would add this.

2WD = rear wheels turn and have traction depending on if you have e-locker, anti-spin diff, etc
AWD Auto = Splits a portion of power to FWD with majority of power still going to rear wheels, if it senses a spin it will adjust power on a per wheel not per axle basis. Very similar to AWD and could in theory be used anytime you really wanted, but will increase wear on your truck so it's better to keep it in 2WD unless roads are poor or are driving very aggressively and losing rear traction.
4HI = All 4 wheels spin with a 50% split between front and back. Going straight is fine but any turns on solid ground could damage your vehicle and increases wear on tires. Unless you go off-roading or know for a fact you NEED the 50\50 split vs AWD, maybe driving through large mud areas where you don't want to slip but keep a constant 50/50 split for traction. Since all 4 tires are turning the same amount turning especially at slow speeds and extreme angles will cause tires to rub and or make awful noises.
4Lo = Similar to 4HI but only for very slow speeds. Not sure when you would use this
 

HSKR R/T

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All the posts here are good so far but I would add this.

2WD = rear wheels turn and have traction depending on if you have e-locker, anti-spin diff, etc
AWD Auto = Splits a portion of power to FWD with majority of power still going to rear wheels, if it senses a spin it will adjust power on a per wheel not per axle basis. Very similar to AWD and could in theory be used anytime you really wanted, but will increase wear on your truck so it's better to keep it in 2WD unless roads are poor or are driving very aggressively and losing rear traction.
4HI = All 4 wheels spin with a 50% split between front and back. Going straight is fine but any turns on solid ground could damage your vehicle and increases wear on tires. Unless you go off-roading or know for a fact you NEED the 50\50 split vs AWD, maybe driving through large mud areas where you don't want to slip but keep a constant 50/50 split for traction. Since all 4 tires are turning the same amount turning especially at slow speeds and extreme angles will cause tires to rub and or make awful noises.
4Lo = Similar to 4HI but only for very slow speeds. Not sure when you would use this
4-auto locks the front axle, but does not send any power to front wheels until it senses rear wheel slip
 

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4H - Be sure and go partial or full off on TCS to get wheel spin. TCS automatically uses wheel braking to stop wheel spin. I’m talking about when you need wheel spin in mud, snow, sand, etc.

4L - TCS is automatically disabled. Great for needing 4WD off road going down and up steep hills. Eliminates as much braking going down hill (granny gear), and keeps PRMs up going slow up hills. I use it all the time for steep hills, while off road.

These trucks don’t have a front axle lock, so it is never locked in 4H or 4L causing both front wheels to have constant power. However, all the front axles are brake locking differentials. So, you will get some differential power to both front wheels, not as good as limited slip, or front locker of course.
 
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Darksteel165

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4-auto locks the front axle, but does not send any power to front wheels until it senses rear wheel slip
Where do you have that information from? Who makes the transfer cases, are they from Borg Warner?
I thought it was 40/60 or 30/70 split and when it senses power loss it will send more. Would love to know what exact part # is in our trucks and if it functions differently then the others supplied since 2010
 

Belvedere

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I use 4-LO occasionally when backing a heavy trailer uphill offroad.
 

Rlaf75

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Your best bet is to read the owners manual that came with the truck. Im not saying any of these comments are wrong or right but that will tell you what you need to know. You can shift into 4hi or 4auto while driving but I wouldn't recommend doing so unless you're under 30 mph. For 4Lo the truck needs to be stopped and I believe in neutral for it to engage. I personally shift into 4hi or auto while just idling with my foot off the brake and i never had a problem here in the New England winters. I used 4lo literally twice throughout all the 4x4 vehicles I ever owned. Like I said, read the owners manual and use your judgement when you think you need to
 

HSKR R/T

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Where do you have that information from? Who makes the transfer cases, are they from Borg Warner?
I thought it was 40/60 or 30/70 split and when it senses power loss it will send more. Would love to know what exact part # is in our trucks and if it functions differently then the others supplied since 2010
The transfer case with 4-auto is different than the ones with just 4-hi/4-lo/2wd.

This video explains it pretty good. It's a AWD "on demand" system. Even in 4-auto, it doesn't send power to front wheels until needed.

 

Ducky5

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Only time I've used 4LO is pulling a 2WD Tundra out of a mud pit on a muddy road. Tried 4HI but it didn't have enough grunt to break the suction on the Tundra.
 

Bt10

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Is it still recommended to run in 4-wheel drive occasionally to keep seals lubricated?
And keep the shift motor free'd up.

I will add that you should not try to shift to any 4WD when you are stuck and spinning the rear tires at all, with TCS "off". It makes bad noises. 🤣

4HI/LO keeps the center transfer case locked, so turning on pavement with the different turning radii of each wheel causes the transfer case gears (or chain) to bind. That is what is hard on the truck. Same with the electric rear locker on the ORP.

While they will shift (except LO) at any speed, the higher the speed, the more the wear on the synchros. DAMHIK

Be careful of long use of 4AUTO; some have reported overheating of the transfer case, altho I think it was a summer off road issue.
 

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