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First visit to the CAT scales

PDiddy

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Like the title says, I took my 2022 Ram 1500 and 26ft travel trailer to the CAT scales for the first time. It was busy there and I didn't get much help. I pulled up on the scales and talked to a guy over the speaker. He told me I was good and to come on into the store to get my print out. So I parked and went in. I am not sure if the numbers are correct. Like I said, It was busy there and I was running out of time, so I didn't run over the scales a second time or ask a lot of questions.

First, my travel trailer is the Grey Wolf 26dbh. The sticker on the trailer says 6100lbs from the factory. I was assuming it would weigh around 6500-6600 at the scale today. The tanks are dry, but is has all our usual gear, two propane tanks, battery, heavy memory foam beds, and more. My Ram has a 1655lb payload. So I believe that makes my vehicle curb weight 5445lbs. When I weighed the truck today, I had myself and some tools with me. probably about 250lbs total. The truck has steps and bed cover, so add another 80lbs. These are (ish) numbers of course. But I am trying to lay out all the info I can for you.

Here is what the CAT numbers showed:
Steer axle: 3220
Drive axle: 3480
Trailer axle: 5760
Gross: 12460

So the gross looks to be about What I was guessing, but I was expecting 800lbs of that weight to be in my trailer, not my truck. Plus, the trailer weight is significantly less than the manufacturers stickered weight of 6100lbs. I am happy if it weighs less than I thought. It just seems odd that it is so much lower than an empty sticker weight.

If the trailer weight is accurate then my tongue weight is really high. My truck weighs 5445lbs (7100GVWR - 1655 payload), plus the additional cargo weighs 330lbs (me and cargo), equals 5775lbs. So my tongue weight is around 925lbs. That's about 16% of travel trailer.

As I am typing this all out, I am realizing that maybe these numbers are good, and my tongue weight is just on the high side. Am I missing something? Still seems odd that my trailer weighed so much less than it’s stickers weight. Thanks for any input you might have. I feel like I have a good grasp on all this, but its good to have someone check your work!

Thanks!
 
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gofishn

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Had this saved.
Link here:

basically, you go when it is NOT busy and weigh 3 times

TV is tow vehicle or, in our case, the Truck.
You trailer axle is ogign to be less than the trailers total weight becasue some of that weight is over your truck, as hitch weight, and spread across both of your trucks axles.

------------------------



Before heading to a CAT scale, grab a yard stick in the event that you can’t reach the CAT scale “call button”. Confirm that TV fuel is full, and TV/TT combination is under “loaded” weight conditions. If you “normally” travel with fresh water in your TT tank, put some in.

Upon arriving at the CAT scale location, first see the attended before heading to the scale. Advise him/her that you would like to weigh your TV/TT combination and that you will be making three (3) independent trips across the scale. First weigh is usually around $7-$9, remaining two should be cheaper. Provide the attendant with an identifying name that you will use while at the scale.

During each separate weigh-in, driver/passengers should remain in the TV:

1st Weigh: TV only (unhitch TT in open parking area).
2nd Weigh: TV/TT hitched and WDH spring bars engaged.
3rd Weigh: TV/TT hitched with WDH spring bars released, but hanging (attached).

Note: “Sometimes” you can remain on the scale after the 2nd weigh and make the WDH adjustment in preparation for the 3rd weigh. Ask the attendant if this is ok.

1st Weigh: As you approach the scale for your 1st weigh (TV only) you will see three separate weighing platforms, place your TV’s front axle on one platform and rear axle on another. Push the “call button” from your TV, or get out and push it but return to your TV. The attendant will respond, then advise him who you are…., and he will advise you when the weighing process is complete. Drive off the scale and hitch your TT back up.

2nd Weigh: The 2nd weigh will be your TV/TT combination with WDH spring bars engaged. Locate the TV front axle on the first platform, TV rear axle on the second platform, and the TT axles on the third platform. Repeat “call button” process. Drive off scale.

3rd Weigh: For your 3rd weigh, dis-engage your WDH spring bars but leave them hanging (attached). Drive back to the scale and stage the TV/TT axles as in the 2nd weigh. Repeat the “call button” process. Drive off the scale, re-engaged your WDH spring bars…, and then go back to the attended to obtain your three separate CAT weight certificates.

Referencing your three CAT weight certificates:

Loaded TT weight: (2nd weigh TV/TT gross weight) minus (1st weigh TV gross weight).
Loaded Tongue weight: (3rd weigh TV axle weights) minus (1st weigh TV gross weight). Tongue weight should be 10% -15% of loaded TT weight (13%-15% on longer TT’s).

Loaded TV weight: 1st weigh gross weight.
Loaded TV/TT weight: 2nd weigh gross weight.
TT GVWR: Confirm that the “Loaded TT weight” doesn't exceed the TT GVWR.

TV GVWR: (2nd weigh steering axle weight) plus (2nd weigh drive axle weight) sum total should be less than the TV GVWR.

TV Axle limits: The 2nd weigh TV axle weights shouldn’t exceed the GAWR (F/R) limits noted on your TV’s driver’s door.

TV GCWR: The 2nd weigh gross weight should be less than specified TV GCWR.
TV Front Axle weight transfer: Most TV manufactures recommend that when using a WDH that the TV’s front axle weight be returned to it’s “unhitched” loaded axle weight; so the 2nd weigh steering axle weight should be the same as the 1st weigh steering axle weight. If the 2nd weigh steering axle weight is plus/minus 50 lbs (weight variable I use), then the WDH is adjusted correctly. If the weight difference is larger than 50 lbs either way, re-adjustment of the WDH should be considered. If the weight difference approaches/exceeds 100 lbs, re-adjustment of the WDH should be preformed.

Note: On full size GM Trucks & SUV’s allowing the 2nd weigh TV front axle weight to exceed the 1st weigh TV front axle weight may force the front suspension against the upper suspension stop. Always refer to the Towing section in your TV’s Owners Manual for specific specifications when using a WDH.

Other: The previous weight data can be used to confirm that the TV’s receiver and WDH are sized adequately to handle the “loaded weights” confirmed by the CAT scale.

CAT scale locations: CAT Scale
 

gofishn

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NOTE:

Doing all of this, weighing 3 times and computing your numbers, allows you to fine tune your WDH.
Each adjustment to your WDH, will require another CAT Scale visit to get new weight totals.
 

bigdodge

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Like the title says, I took my 2022 Ram 1500 and 26ft travel trailer to the CAT scales for the first time. It was busy there and I didn't get much help. I pulled up on the scales and talked to a guy over the speaker. He told me I was good and to come on into the store to get my print out. So I parked and went in. I am not sure if the numbers are correct. Like I said, It was busy there and I was running out of time, so I didn't run over the scales a second time or ask a lot of questions.

First, my travel trailer is the Grey Wolf 26dbh. The sticker on the trailer says 6100lbs from the factory. I was assuming it would weigh around 6500-6600 at the scale today. The tanks are dry, but is has all our usual gear, two propane tanks, battery, heavy memory foam beds, and more. My Ram has a 1655lb payload. So I believe that makes my vehicle curb weight 5445lbs. When I weighed the truck today, I had myself and some tools with me. probably about 250lbs total. The truck has steps and bed cover, so add another 80lbs. These are (ish) numbers of course. But I am trying to lay out all the info I can for you.

Here is what the CAT numbers showed:
Steer axle: 3220
Drive axle: 3480
Trailer axle: 5760
Gross: 12460

So the gross looks to be about What I was guessing, but I was expecting 800lbs of that weight to be in my trailer, not my truck. Plus, the trailer weight is significantly less than the manufacturers stickered weight of 6100lbs. I am happy if it weighs less than I thought. It just seems odd that it is so much lower than an empty sticker weight.

If the trailer weight is accurate then my tongue weight is really high. My truck weighs 5445lbs (7100GVWR - 1655 payload), plus the additional cargo weighs 330lbs (me and cargo), equals 5775lbs. So my tongue weight is around 925lbs. That's about 16% of travel trailer.

As I am typing this all out, I am realizing that maybe these numbers are good, and my tongue weight is just on the high side. Am I missing something? Still seems odd that my trailer weighed so much less than it’s stickers weight. Thanks for any input you might have. I feel like I have a good grasp on all this, but its good to have someone check your work!

Thanks!
what does the sticker on the "B" piller say the numbers are
what is you max towing rating by vin number,
 

PDiddy

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Had this saved.
Link here:

basically, you go when it is NOT busy and weigh 3 times

TV is tow vehicle or, in our case, the Truck.
You trailer axle is ogign to be less than the trailers total weight becasue some of that weight is over your truck, as hitch weight, and spread across both of your trucks axles.

------------------------



Before heading to a CAT scale, grab a yard stick in the event that you can’t reach the CAT scale “call button”. Confirm that TV fuel is full, and TV/TT combination is under “loaded” weight conditions. If you “normally” travel with fresh water in your TT tank, put some in.

Upon arriving at the CAT scale location, first see the attended before heading to the scale. Advise him/her that you would like to weigh your TV/TT combination and that you will be making three (3) independent trips across the scale. First weigh is usually around $7-$9, remaining two should be cheaper. Provide the attendant with an identifying name that you will use while at the scale.

During each separate weigh-in, driver/passengers should remain in the TV:

1st Weigh: TV only (unhitch TT in open parking area).
2nd Weigh: TV/TT hitched and WDH spring bars engaged.
3rd Weigh: TV/TT hitched with WDH spring bars released, but hanging (attached).

Note: “Sometimes” you can remain on the scale after the 2nd weigh and make the WDH adjustment in preparation for the 3rd weigh. Ask the attendant if this is ok.

1st Weigh: As you approach the scale for your 1st weigh (TV only) you will see three separate weighing platforms, place your TV’s front axle on one platform and rear axle on another. Push the “call button” from your TV, or get out and push it but return to your TV. The attendant will respond, then advise him who you are…., and he will advise you when the weighing process is complete. Drive off the scale and hitch your TT back up.

2nd Weigh: The 2nd weigh will be your TV/TT combination with WDH spring bars engaged. Locate the TV front axle on the first platform, TV rear axle on the second platform, and the TT axles on the third platform. Repeat “call button” process. Drive off scale.

3rd Weigh: For your 3rd weigh, dis-engage your WDH spring bars but leave them hanging (attached). Drive back to the scale and stage the TV/TT axles as in the 2nd weigh. Repeat the “call button” process. Drive off the scale, re-engaged your WDH spring bars…, and then go back to the attended to obtain your three separate CAT weight certificates.

Referencing your three CAT weight certificates:

Loaded TT weight: (2nd weigh TV/TT gross weight) minus (1st weigh TV gross weight).
Loaded Tongue weight: (3rd weigh TV axle weights) minus (1st weigh TV gross weight). Tongue weight should be 10% -15% of loaded TT weight (13%-15% on longer TT’s).

Loaded TV weight: 1st weigh gross weight.
Loaded TV/TT weight: 2nd weigh gross weight.
TT GVWR: Confirm that the “Loaded TT weight” doesn't exceed the TT GVWR.

TV GVWR: (2nd weigh steering axle weight) plus (2nd weigh drive axle weight) sum total should be less than the TV GVWR.

TV Axle limits: The 2nd weigh TV axle weights shouldn’t exceed the GAWR (F/R) limits noted on your TV’s driver’s door.

TV GCWR: The 2nd weigh gross weight should be less than specified TV GCWR.
TV Front Axle weight transfer: Most TV manufactures recommend that when using a WDH that the TV’s front axle weight be returned to it’s “unhitched” loaded axle weight; so the 2nd weigh steering axle weight should be the same as the 1st weigh steering axle weight. If the 2nd weigh steering axle weight is plus/minus 50 lbs (weight variable I use), then the WDH is adjusted correctly. If the weight difference is larger than 50 lbs either way, re-adjustment of the WDH should be considered. If the weight difference approaches/exceeds 100 lbs, re-adjustment of the WDH should be preformed.

Note: On full size GM Trucks & SUV’s allowing the 2nd weigh TV front axle weight to exceed the 1st weigh TV front axle weight may force the front suspension against the upper suspension stop. Always refer to the Towing section in your TV’s Owners Manual for specific specifications when using a WDH.

Other: The previous weight data can be used to confirm that the TV’s receiver and WDH are sized adequately to handle the “loaded weights” confirmed by the CAT scale.

CAT scale locations: CAT Scale

Great info. I forgot that the tongue weight is a portion of the trailer weight. In that case, the numbers make sence and puts the TT weight in the range I was expecting it to be. I will go back and get the three weigh ins. I am going to get a different WDH, so I will wait until l get it before I go again. I apprecaite you listing out the process so clearly. It gives me something to go by when setting up my WDH.

Thanks
 

WXman

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Yep. I feel like that's probably the one thing that guys overlook most often when trying to match a camper to a truck. Trailers will apply 10-15% (usually 15) of their weight onto the hitch, and this counts as payload. So if you start out with 1,500 lbs. of payload, and you put people and gear inside the truck amounting to 750 lbs., that only leaves 750 lbs. left over which caps you at a 5,000 lb. trailer. It's REALLY easy to go way over payload capacity on a 1500 series truck.
 

PDiddy

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Yep. I feel like that's probably the one thing that guys overlook most often when trying to match a camper to a truck. Trailers will apply 10-15% (usually 15) of their weight onto the hitch, and this counts as payload. So if you start out with 1,500 lbs. of payload, and you put people and gear inside the truck amounting to 750 lbs., that only leaves 750 lbs. left over which caps you at a 5,000 lb. trailer. It's REALLY easy to go way over payload capacity on a 1500 series truck.

Yes it is. I am going to be right at my payload with family and tongue weight. Gear will all have to go in the trailer. Which I do anyways. I may do a few things to get the tongue weight down to the 12% range. I was regretting not getting the 3.92 diffs, but there would be no point in being able to tow more. I'm running out of paylaod with a 6600lb trailer.
 

SnowBlaZR2

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I was regretting not getting the 3.92 diffs, but there would be no point in being able to tow more. I'm running out of paylaod with a 6600lb trailer.
You'd still tow it better, assuming you tow it a lot.

Also, get the CAT app and do the three weighs mentioned above. My camper is pushing 7500 lbs, I have almost 200 lbs less payload, and I carry all my gear in the bed. Also have a heavy bed cover.

Balance that sucker out.

What WDH are you using?
 

PDiddy

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You'd still tow it better, assuming you tow it a lot.

Also, get the CAT app and do the three weighs mentioned above. My camper is pushing 7500 lbs, I have almost 200 lbs less payload, and I carry all my gear in the bed. Also have a heavy bed cover.

Balance that sucker out.

What WDH are you using?

I am keeping an eye out for a front diff assembly with 3.92s. If I find a good deal on one, I’ll pick up and do a regear. It will happen eventually. But, so far it’s been great towing this trailer.

I don’t know the brand name of my WHD. It looks the same as this one. I’m looking at getting the Andersen WHD.

 

dski

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If it helps at all my similar truck with just me & a full tank of gas (1465 payload):
Steer axle: 3320 lb
Drive axle: 2560 lb
Gross weight 5880 Lb
 

Mr.Grid

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I don’t know the brand name of my WHD. It looks the same as this one. I’m looking at getting the Andersen WHD.

I looked at the hitch you posted and think it’s good. You should consider using it and see what you can do with it prior to spending money on something else. I’ve seen others towing #7k with the same hitch successfully.

The advice of measuring initial TV front wheel well heights and using this after an initial scale of TV and TV/TT is easiest if making adjustments imho.

One thing that is not mentioned is the trailer heights. It has been my experience that a tandem axle trailer will tow best when front of trailer is set slightly (1/2”-1”) lower than the rear of trailer. Towing trailer Level with tandem axles is not best.
 

tjbarney

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I looked at the hitch you posted and think it’s good. You should consider using it and see what you can do with it prior to spending money on something else. I’ve seen others towing #7k with the same hitch successfully.

The advice of measuring initial TV front wheel well heights and using this after an initial scale of TV and TV/TT is easiest if making adjustments imho.

One thing that is not mentioned is the trailer heights. It has been my experience that a tandem axle trailer will tow best when front of trailer is set slightly (1/2”-1”) lower than the rear of trailer. Towing trailer Level with tandem axles is not best.

I was wondering about the proper level of trailer when setting up the WDH. We recently got a 2020 Ram 1500 Laramie with 20s and the dealership reset our WDH for the truck and our trailer. The tech doing it got the trailer level (22 ft dual axle) and then he actually raised the ball on our hitch from where it was set when using it on our Land Rover SUV. I wasn't happy with this as it doesn't allow the tailgate to fully go down without hitting the hitch ball. It showed me how the truck and trailer appears level when engaged, but I feel the hitch ball just seems too high. Do you have a link to info or anything showing how you describe you feel it is best to have the tongue lower than rear on the tt?

Also, can anyone here share their hitch ball height for their travel trailer? Is it low enough to allow the tailgate to fully go down?
 

SnowBlaZR2

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I was wondering about the proper level of trailer when setting up the WDH. We recently got a 2020 Ram 1500 Laramie with 20s and the dealership reset our WDH for the truck and our trailer. The tech doing it got the trailer level (22 ft dual axle) and then he actually raised the ball on our hitch from where it was set when using it on our Land Rover SUV. I wasn't happy with this as it doesn't allow the tailgate to fully go down without hitting the hitch ball. It showed me how the truck and trailer appears level when engaged, but I feel the hitch ball just seems too high. Do you have a link to info or anything showing how you describe you feel it is best to have the tongue lower than rear on the tt?

Also, can anyone here share their hitch ball height for their travel trailer? Is it low enough to allow the tailgate to fully go down?
Ball height is 24" on mine, verified with the trailer leveled. We do have a factory 3" lift, though. Does your trailer's manufacturer list that anywhere in the specs?
 

Mr.Grid

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I was wondering about the proper level of trailer when setting up the WDH. We recently got a 2020 Ram 1500 Laramie with 20s and the dealership reset our WDH for the truck and our trailer. The tech doing it got the trailer level (22 ft dual axle) and then he actually raised the ball on our hitch from where it was set when using it on our Land Rover SUV. I wasn't happy with this as it doesn't allow the tailgate to fully go down without hitting the hitch ball. It showed me how the truck and trailer appears level when engaged, but I feel the hitch ball just seems too high. Do you have a link to info or anything showing how you describe you feel it is best to have the tongue lower than rear on the tt?

Also, can anyone here share their hitch ball height for their travel trailer? Is it low enough to allow the tailgate to fully go down?
You should be able to measure from the ground up to a frame rail or some distinguishable line on the trailer front and rear to determine trailer level. If not, place a short level on the front trailer rail going to the ball coupler and set to level.

With trailer level not attached to truck measure the height of the trailer coupler. The ball height on truck should be 1/2" to 1” taller than trailer coupler without trailer attached.

Measure the truck wheel well opening heights using the wheel center of the truck on level ground at all four corners and record.

Attach the trailer to the truck, install spring bars and lower. Now go back to truck and measure the front wheel well opening again. The front openings should be slightly (1/4 - 3/4”) lower than without trailer. The truck rear wheel well openings will be lower as well.

When correct, the front of the trailer should be slightly lower (1/2” – 1”) than the trailer rear when attached to truck also. If you can’t measure the trailer being lower in front than rear, place the level on the front frame rail. The level bubble should be more rearward if correct.

Playing with the spring bar setting is needed to transfer weight to the truck front axle. You might need to shift some weight (sometimes forward) in the trailer also. You might even need to lower or raise the ball height from initial setting.

My experience is this. Tandem axle trailers tow best when front is down slightly. This is because when level or higher, the rear trailer axle will want to steer the front of the trailer even with the correct percentage of tongue weight on the hitch.

I spend more time achieving the settings I wrote prior to scaling. How the truck handles the tow is more important than the scale to me. If it does not feel right while towing on the road after setting, go back and move some weight forward and retry. You might need to reset the spring bars as well.

Depending on the tow vehicle, the 10-15% tongue weight is only a guideline.

First Tow with 2022
 

tjbarney

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Ball height is 24" on mine, verified with the trailer leveled. We do have a factory 3" lift, though. Does your trailer's manufacturer list that anywhere in the specs?

Thank you. Yesterday we went ahead and unhitched and the trailer at level (have the levelmate pro installed) the trailer coupler was at 22 3/4". The truck ball was at 27 1/4"! I knew it seemed way too high. We ended up dropping the ball 3 spots and it is now at 23 1/4".

@Mr.Grid

Thank you for the instructions. We dropped the ball significantly yesterday (see just above). We now need to get it on level ground with it hitched to test the measurements from where everything else was already set. The attatched bars appear to be in the correct location per the Fastaway e2 manual. There are also 5 washers in the hitch ball. Which do you think would end up needing to be adjusted more likely (if any) with us changing the ball height down?

Do you know what changes take place when you add or remove a washer?
 

Mr.Grid

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Thank you. Yesterday we went ahead and unhitched and the trailer at level (have the levelmate pro installed) the trailer coupler was at 22 3/4". The truck ball was at 27 1/4"! I knew it seemed way too high. We ended up dropping the ball 3 spots and it is now at 23 1/4".

@Mr.Grid

Thank you for the instructions. We dropped the ball significantly yesterday (see just above). We now need to get it on level ground with it hitched to test the measurements from where everything else was already set. The attatched bars appear to be in the correct location per the Fastaway e2 manual. There are also 5 washers in the hitch ball. Which do you think would end up needing to be adjusted more likely (if any) with us changing the ball height down?

Do you know what changes take place when you add or remove a washer?
I have a Drawtite that allows the head to be rotated to adjust the spring bar tension similar to Fastway. If you need more spring bar tension, loosed head mounting bolts and add washers to the bolt between the head and shank to rotate the head rearward. This drops the spring bars and give you more lift forcing more weight to the front truck axle. What this video for how this adjustment works.

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dis...8Pvg7CmkhaSrlslNpX63HUKx1hoNvSuhoC8HcQAvD_BwE
 

Mr.Grid

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I have a Drawtite that allows the head to be rotated to adjust the spring bar tension similar to Fastway. If you need more spring bar tension, loosed head mounting bolts and add washers to the bolt between the head and shank to rotate the head rearward. This drops the spring bars and give you more lift forcing more weight to the front truck axle. What this video for how this adjustment works.

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution-Hitch/Fastway/FA92-00-1000.html?feed=npn&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google | Shop - Weight Distribution Hitch&adgroupid=87543463379&campaignid=203667737&creative=407421965478&device=c&devicemodel=&feeditemid=&keyword=&loc_interest_ms=&loc_physical_ms=9018721&matchtype=&network=g&placement=&position=&gclid=CjwKCAiA5Y6eBhAbEiwA_2ZWIdvcLEAuhdcjRyADFmPfVB8Pvg7CmkhaSrlslNpX63HUKx1hoNvSuhoC8HcQAvD_BwE
If you need less spring bar tension, you remove washers from head swivel. You need to play with this adjustment to get the truck front to sit properly. Front of truck needs to be lower with trailer attached. If you don’t have hitch instructions they have them at the link I posted. Lastly generously GREASE (auto chassis grease) the ball and openings where the spring bars go into head. This is Important. Before each outing clean any dirt out if necessary and re-grease. I use cue tips for the spring bar openings.
 

tjbarney

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If you need less spring bar tension, you remove washers from head swivel. You need to play with this adjustment to get the truck front to sit properly. Front of truck needs to be lower with trailer attached. If you don’t have hitch instructions they have them at the link I posted. Lastly generously GREASE (auto chassis grease) the ball and openings where the spring bars go into head. This is Important. Before each outing clean any dirt out if necessary and re-grease. I use cue tips for the spring bar openings.

Thank you very much, that is super helpful. We are pulling out tomorrow and will stop at a level parking lot on the way out of town to make sure we are all set.
 

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