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Experienced RV Owners please provide feedback

BostonBlueRam

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So I am starting the process of getting an RV . The first step was getting a truck, which you can see which combination of truck I got in my signature. The payload capacity for this truck is around 1200lbs I think . So been doing a bit of research to see how I can increase the payload capacity.

I was looking at buying a travel trailer in a couple of years. I really like Grand Design Imagine's 2400BH and the 2800BH. I rather the 2800BH but worried it is too much rig for this truck to handle. Even with the 2400BH the payload will be pretty much maxed out.

I was reading this article which gave an interesting perspective on the whole 3/4 ton vs 1/2ton pickup debate in regards to towing travel trailers..

https://rvlifemag.com/towing-half-ton-three-quarter-ton/

Give it a read and let me know what you think. Aside from the legal issue, the author makes a compelling argument that you can actually tow more then your listed payload capacity sticker since that number doesn't calculate the max axle rating if you used a weight distributing hitch.

Again give it a read and let me know your thoughts, I am new to trucks and RVs and only know what I know and nothing else. SO figured I would ask the experts on this fine forum!
 

Edwards

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Hate to say it but your already backwards. Pick out/buy the trailer first and then get a truck that will tow it.
If you've got the truck, DO NOT even look at trailers that exceed your tongue weight or max towing because you will invariably fall in love with one or some heavy feature (triple slides!) and then have to trade in your truck on one that can tow it.

Our first travel trailer far exceeded the capacity of my Tahoe so we went down the path of a diesel Excursion and all because the family fell in love with the super slide/front kitchen model.
 

YoAdrian

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I recommend choosing the trailer first, then decide on the truck. ;) In all honesty BBR that was actual advice I was given and ignored, and you know where I ended up. Try out a small trailer maybe until you finish your lease, then go big on the trailer and HD on your truck.

My buddy just bought a 2018 2500 Laramie with a 3000 lb payload. No worries for him towing!

GVWR, GAWR, GCWR, tongue weight, hitch class, tow rating, engine capability, engine cooling, alternator charging power... all worth considering, some can even be improved but sometimes only at a hefty cost (engine cooling, trailer axles, etc).
 

troutspinner

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We had a trailer for a few years but lost interest and finally just sold it but it was fun while it lasted, especially all those times salmon fishing. That was a 3150BH model with 2 slides, it was big but for it’s size, around 7600lbs dry wasn’t bad at all.

Personally, I wouldn’t have minded going smaller, maybe 27’. Towing a 31’ trailer for 4 hours is exhausting! By time you get into a campground, meander the tight roads and get it landed, you’ll need a beer! And if you don’t drink, you’ll start! ;)

Also, because we had a trailer that was over 28’, we couldn’t get certain spots and those certain spots were always the most desirable, like lakeside. Something to heavily consider.

I’ve learned that many people starting out with trailers go for the big ones. At the end of the day, no matter how big they are, they’ll seem small inside with a family dodging each other. In reality though, you’re not in the trailer much, you’re outside, where you should be. ;). The trailer is for sleeping.

Oh, one last thing. If you can get an outside kitchen, especially if it has a couple burners, sink and fridge, you’ll never go inside, except to sleep.
 

BostonBlueRam

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Thanks for all the advice and perspectives guys. I think it was really helpful to me. I will probably lease this truck for two years and then see how it goes. I am not sure if I want to move up to a 2500 but we will see. Thanks again!
 

356

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troutspinner, Good words of wisdom. I grew up RV'ing and spent one of my high school years traveling North America in an RV while father was on his sabbatical. As a 16 year old, I did most of the driving. In my 30s I started RV'ing as part of my vintage racing hobby. I soon found I was spending more time on RV “stuff” than I was on my hobby. Don’t go down that road. Keep it simple.

Today’s 21-24’ trailers tow well, the tongue weights are within the capacity of your Limited, and the nicer trailers offer excellent amenities. Find one you like (hint, Airstream) then get the truck set up right. It should tow like a breeze.
 

Zeronet

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So I am starting the process of getting an RV . The first step was getting a truck, which you can see which combination of truck I got in my signature. The payload capacity for this truck is around 1200lbs I think . So been doing a bit of research to see how I can increase the payload capacity.

I was looking at buying a travel trailer in a couple of years. I really like Grand Design Imagine's 2400BH and the 2800BH. I rather the 2800BH but worried it is too much rig for this truck to handle. Even with the 2400BH the payload will be pretty much maxed out.

I was reading this article which gave an interesting perspective on the whole 3/4 ton vs 1/2ton pickup debate in regards to towing travel trailers..

https://rvlifemag.com/towing-half-ton-three-quarter-ton/

Give it a read and let me know what you think. Aside from the legal issue, the author makes a compelling argument that you can actually tow more then your listed payload capacity sticker since that number doesn't calculate the max axle rating if you used a weight distributing hitch.

Again give it a read and let me know your thoughts, I am new to trucks and RVs and only know what I know and nothing else. SO figured I would ask the experts on this fine forum!

The 2400bh at 29ft overall length and 505 lbs of tongue weight (before any options) is probably as big as I would want to go. Your limiting factors will be payload and rear axle GAWR.

The factory trailer tongue weights are very misleading. Your ready to camp tongue weight will be about 160lbs more. You must also add about 85lbs for a good weight distribution hitch. Figure a total of 750lbs of trailer and hitch weight will be added to your truck receiver. More if you plan to travel with a tank full of fresh water. That leaves you about 450 lbs for passengers/pets/items you plan to carry in the truck bed/any accessories you’ve added to the truck. This is the maximum you can legally carry.

If you go over your rated payload capacity and are involved in an accident you could be personally liable if you were negligent, your insurance company may not cover you. Then there’s your family’s safety to consider. Better to be safe in my opinion.

Will the truck handle more? Yes probably, and many do, until you reach the rear axle capacity which you will probably be pretty close to (100-200lbs). I wouldn’t ever go over on GAWR, that’s just asking for trouble.

@Edwards and @YoAdrian are giving good advice about choosing the trailer first and then choosing the tow vehicle. I know that doesn’t help much if you’ve already bought the truck.
 

fish mojo

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I have been going through the same decision process. 22’ heavy trailer. Close to 700 pounds or more tongue weight. I REALLY wanted the 2019 Ram 1500, but came to the realization that the 2500 Ram will be much better suited for towing moderately heavy loads. I’m having a hard time finding a 2018 Ram Laramie 4x4 6’4” bed with the 6.4 hemi, auto level air suspension and 4.10 gears. I wish they would release the 2019 heavy duties for order.
 

devildodge

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I have been going through the same decision process. 22’ heavy trailer. Close to 700 pounds or more tongue weight. I REALLY wanted the 2019 Ram 1500, but came to the realization that the 2500 Ram will be much better suited for towing moderately heavy loads. I’m having a hard time finding a 2018 Ram Laramie 4x4 6’4” bed with the 6.4 hemi, auto level air suspension and 4.10 gears. I wish they would release the 2019 heavy duties for order.
Have to wait to November 19th. And they don't start production til Jan 2.

I have had a similar issue with the 4.10 gears. 3.73 will be fine but I didn't want to lose the extra GCWR.

I have a few threads all about this dilemma.

Good luck @BostonBlueRam.

Hope you find a travel trailer that will fit your truck. Not sure about the camping where you are, but here in Pa 24 to 28 is the sweet spot. Anything bigger and your options for spots gets very limited.

We camped this weekend. And our neighbors 5th wheel was way too big for his spot, but he got it in.

You can not increase payload...just do things to help the towing process.

Keep us posted on your plan. If you don't want to move up to 2500, be sure not to look at the bigger trailers. Some are very very nice.
 

BostonBlueRam

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Have to wait to November 19th. And they don't start production til Jan 2.

I have had a similar issue with the 4.10 gears. 3.73 will be fine but I didn't want to lose the extra GCWR.

I have a few threads all about this dilemma.

Good luck @BostonBlueRam.

Hope you find a travel trailer that will fit your truck. Not sure about the camping where you are, but here in Pa 24 to 28 is the sweet spot. Anything bigger and your options for spots gets very limited.

We camped this weekend. And our neighbors 5th wheel was way too big for his spot, but he got it in.

You can not increase payload...just do things to help the towing process.

Keep us posted on your plan. If you don't want to move up to 2500, be sure not to look at the bigger trailers. Some are very very nice.
Thanks @devildodge

I am going to stick with probably a trailer like the Grand Design 2400BH. I think my plan is to try out "Truck life" for the next two years while leasing.. then after my lease ends, if I still think it's great I will buy a less equipped RAM with higher payload and then get my camper shortly after.

At least that's my plan for now, stay tuned in a few years :D
 

devildodge

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We are going through similar thoughts. Good luck with the decisions you make.

We got two more weekends of camping, and by next April I am probably gonna have to finish this decision, the ole 99 is just too rusted to keep tapeing up.

And we are planning a trailer upgrade for a few longer trips we have planned...
 

YoAdrian

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Have to wait to November 19th. And they don't start production til Jan 2.
No worries there, this forum is full of some veeerrrryyy patient people.

...and also some not so much. :D

If you don't want to move up to 2500, be sure not to look at the bigger trailers.
Seriously this! Any Airstream 25’ or up is frankly too heavy for a 1500 unless you skimp on options or look at pre-1970 trailers. Other brands of longer trailers may be lighter, but before you shop do the honest math, and set yourself a trailer GVWR and tongue weight limit BEFORE you shop. Do not look at anything over your limits. Ask me how I know.

BTW never load the back of a trailer solely to lighten your tongue weight (just like a teeter totter? not exactly...). An aft CG of the trailer can cause an unstable situation. Weight should go over the axles or slighly forward for stability. Let me see if I can re-find a sweet video on this one... I’ll add it if I find it.
 

BostonBlueRam

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Found it. This is why you need that trailer brake controller!
Wow that video really makes the argument very clearly haha..

Hey I had random question for you TT owners.. so I know you want to have 10-15% tongue weight of the TT on the hitch for safety reasons. Is that before you use the weight distribution hitch or after? After you put the WD hitch on, does it lessen that 10-15% w/o? I would think so right?
 

devildodge

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Wow that video really makes the argument very clearly haha..

Hey I had random question for you TT owners.. so I know you want to have 10-15% tongue weight of the TT on the hitch for safety reasons. Is that before you use the weight distribution hitch or after? After you put the WD hitch on, does it lessen that 10-15% w/o? I would think so right?
You won't change the tongue weight.

The weight distribution hitch puts weight back on the front of the truck and back on the wheels of the trailer.

This is also why the trucks have a bit of rake to them.

So if you were thinking the wdh would let you go with a higher tongue weight it will not. Still have to be at a certain weight.
 

YoAdrian

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10-15% tongue weight of the TT on the hitch for safety reasons. Is that before you use the weight distribution hitch or after? After you put the WD hitch on, does it lessen that 10-15% w/o?
Short answer is it’s before WD, but WD shifts very little weight backwards off of the tongue - WD mostly moves weight from your TV/truck’s rear axle forward to the front axle.

My example: Without WD, starting with 1100# tongue weight, my rear axles were pressed down and overloaded. Engaging my WD bars transferred about 400# from my truck’s rear axle to the front (steering) axle - it shifted only about 100# back to the trailer axles. The analogy I like about WD bars is thinking of them as handles on a wheelbarrow... you are lifting the rear and putting more weight on the front wheel(s).

update: darnit @devildodge you are quicker on the draw again...
 

BostonBlueRam

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Short answer is it’s before WD, but WD shifts very little weight backwards off of the tongue - WD mostly moves weight from your TV/truck’s rear axle forward to the front axle.

My example: Without WD, starting with 1100# tongue weight, my rear axles were pressed down and overloaded. Engaging my WD bars transferred about 400# from my truck’s rear axle to the front (steering) axle - it shifted only about 100# back to the trailer axles. The analogy I like about WD bars is thinking of them as handles on a wheelbarrow... you are lifting the rear and putting more weight on the front wheel(s).

update: darnit @devildodge you are quicker on the draw again...
Sounds like I might want to aim for a bit more then 10% like 12% given some weight is being shifted to the trailer axle right?
 

devildodge

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Short answer is it’s before WD, but WD shifts very little weight backwards off of the tongue - WD mostly moves weight from your TV/truck’s rear axle forward to the front axle.

My example: Without WD, starting with 1100# tongue weight, my rear axles were pressed down and overloaded. Engaging my WD bars transferred about 400# from my truck’s rear axle to the front (steering) axle - it shifted only about 100# back to the trailer axles. The analogy I like about WD bars is thinking of them as handles on a wheelbarrow... you are lifting the rear and putting more weight on the front wheel(s).

update: darnit @devildodge you are quicker on the draw again...
But you are always a little more thorough with your answers.
After these last few years of travel trailer camping, it is very refreshing to see people checking numbers and facts.

Believe me, these Rams will tow a lotand stop alot...but there are rules and laws...and sometimes what one thinks is common sense...really doesn't seem to click...just take a ride in a campground
 

devildodge

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Figure your trailer will be 15% tongue weight. Figure that weight from GVWR, then what other payload you might have. Decide how many beverages you are taking.

This will give you a number to take from GCWR to see how much trailer you can have.

The truck will tow a large trailer...but at expense of payload. You need to find the happy medium.

It all depends on your particular situation.

If you tow mostly in flatlands and fair weather...go closer to the rating.

If you tow in hills or inclement weather...go away from the maximum.
 

YoAdrian

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Sounds like I might want to aim for a bit more then 10% like 12% given some weight is being shifted to the trailer axle right?
Yes, 10% on the tongue should be treated as an absolute minimum, with a safe non-shifting load in your trailer mostly balanced over the axles. More than 10% is ok, you are then really just limited by your tow vehicle/hitch system. So ya, 12% would be a good planning target.

My trailer had solar panels and batteries added forward of the axles, resulting in a tongue weight at the upper end of the 15% range, so if you intend to modify your trailer, factor that in as well. Heck some folks have ramps and load ATVs motorcycles canoes etc... The TV you buy limits what you are safely able to do. Scale these things together and you are good.
 

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