Anyone install a JL 13TW5 (slim) subwoofer behind rear seats?

[MilehighRam]

Has anyone install a JL 13TW5 (slim) subwoofer behind rear seats in a 5th gen Ram? Theyre very shallow <3" and could fit where the factory HK factory sub goes. Im not in a rush to redo my audio, probably at least a year out but am curious. Im selling my pair of JL 10W6V3s as I dont want to raise the rear seats like I have on my last 2 Ram trucks.

If I decide to go with a pair of these 13TW5s, ill just place them under the seat.

 

[reggiejp3]

I haven't tried it on this truck yet. However, may I suggest the 12tw3 instead. IMO the 13tw5 is louder but makes better bass in a downfire box. I had it behind my seat and it was very loud but didn't kick as much as I wanted. I then tried a 12tw3 and had more kick behind the seat. Not quite as loud as the 13. I put the 13tw5 in a downfire box and it worked much better. JMO

 

[LITTLEREBEL]

Has anyone install a JL 13TW5 (slim) subwoofer behind rear seats in a 5th gen Ram? Theyre very shallow <3" and could fit where the factory HK factory sub goes. Im not in a rush to redo my audio, probably at least a year out but am curious. Im selling my pair of JL 10W6V3s as I dont want to raise the rear seats like I have on my last 2 Ram trucks.

If I decide to go with a pair of these 13TW5s, ill just place them under the seat.

4-10TW3's under the seat without raising it.

 

[Ellisstrong]

4-10TW3's under the seat without raising it.

Did you get this from MTI?

 

[MilehighRam]

4-10TW3's under the seat without raising it.

I like it!

 

[brotharon]

I like it!

I also like it, and I couldnt give a crap about loud stereos. That just looks good! Congrats to you

 

[Clayssport]

Very nice, but a G for a box.. ill take a fox box and save 800$.. they do look killer though

 

[LITTLEREBEL]

Did you get this from MTI?

Yea, MTI built it.

 

[Sonnie]

Those JL subs will slam hard too. I have the Stealthbox and it absolutely pounds, and the clean extension is incredible with only two drivers.

 

[jakemyster84]

Following, I have also thought about replacing the factory sub with a slim aftermarket in the same box. Maybe even putting in a high pass filter for anything over 80hz to help with the boomyness.

 

[Sonnie]

Following, I have also thought about replacing the factory sub with a slim aftermarket in the same box. Maybe even putting in a high pass filter for anything over 80hz to help with the boomyness.

I have no idea how you would calculate the volume on the factory sub enclosure, with it having such an odd shape, but you'd need to know in order to make sure you have the right sub, or if there is even one available. You'd want to use a low-pass filter on the sub, not a high-pass filter.

 

[jakemyster84]

I have no idea how you would calculate the volume on the factory sub enclosure, with it having such an odd shape, but you'd need to know in order to make sure you have the right sub, or if there is even one available. You'd want to use a low-pass filter on the sub, not a high-pass filter.

I thought i remember seeing someone said the factory box is about .8 cubic feet big, I don't know if this is correct or not though. And yeah, low-pass is what I meant, got my working backwards there.

Funny this is the first vehicle that I really want to change the factory system since my 95 Neon, the bass is just so damn boomy. But I do admit I added a sub to a couple others in between the Neon and now current Ram.

 

[Sonnie]

I don't think it's the sub that is the issue with the boominess, I think it's the tuning/equalization in the amp that they have applied. Some software updates have fixed it according to some other owners. So even if you replace the driver in the factory enclosure, it the tuning is not fixed, it won't do much good. HOWEVER... if you can get the 10TW3 to fit in the factory enclosure, it only requires .5cuft, so it would be close after taking away the driver displacement... might be a little shy of .5, but you could stuff it to death with polyfil to help make it function as a larger box. I have not paid that much attention to the size of the driver, so it may not work, as the 10TW3 needs almost 10 inches cutout. You might also get a box built back there if you don't have the eTorque, as there is a good bit of room behind the driver's seat on the driver's side. One 10TW3 is going to put the factory sub to shame... those things pound pretty hard.

Another option is to put an aftermarket amp on the factory sub... something that allows some tuning (DSP). Run a PAC AmpPRO to the rear to get a clean unprocessed signal to the aftermarket amp, as you can't use the sub speaker leads unless you plan to bypass the ANC. This way you have full control over the crossover of the factory sub and can tune it to your liking.

 

[Shives]

How much room is behind the seat? Does anyone have the factory sub out they can measure the box? Thanks

 

[Ellisstrong]

How much room is behind the seat? Does anyone have the factory sub out they can measure the box? Thanks

I may be able to tomorrow

 

[Shives]

Thanks! Trying to figure out how much room we have behind the seats, if a box can be made, installed or just stick with the under seat box.

 

[Shives]

Well, I just purchased the factory subwoofer enclosure that comes with the HK sub, (single voice coil) to which I’m going to add to my 6 speaker system. I plan on using a small 500 watt amp, like a kicker or Rockford. I don’t know what the factory sub impedance is, so I’ll have to measure that.
I’m trying to figure out where to get signal from. Lots of folks have gotten it at the ANC/AMP under the drivers seat without issue. Being this is not alpine or HK, I’m wondering if the signal to the front doors is full-range?
I’m am just going to guess they would not cut the frequency going to the doors. I’ll have to grab an older audio test cd and do a sweep test. Make sure I see it moving at 20hz.
I know some folks were looking to do this, and wanted to be updated. So, I’m going to go ahead and make a post at some point with photos and such.
I don’t plan to run the stock sub woofer long, but again... it’s the best sub engendered for the box! So maybe with a better amp, and such I can get it to sound ok. But, I plan to take that out, I’m sure it will be very limited! I would like to run a JL or some other shallow mount. I know the stock woofer is about 3.25 deep. I’m sure I can make a ring to sit the speaker out, and mount it. The opening on the stock box is a little over 7 inches I think, (bad measurement of sub) so, again not much for choices without making a larger ring. And stuffing the hell out of it with poly-fill.
If anyone has any Info like HK factory sub impedance, front full signal, blah blah... Even an amp suggestion, or if someone is selling a small foot print amp, mono block, with a remote gain that would be killer.
To all, fantastic day, and thanks!