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These still look good. Actually, they look better now than they did in these pictures. They've smoothed out. Carhartt Seat Covers

Try cleaning the throttle body. As oil vapors and such build up on the throttle plate, it restricts air flow. The computer adjusts to compensate. You might just be in a spot right between steps. It cracks the throttle, but then it's too fast, so it closes a bit and now it's too low. Don't...

2500s and up are over at Homepage - HD Rams

You need one of these https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Pacer-Performance/PP20-702.html

It probably will only take one drive cycle to adjust the base timing. Which is in general terms, a cold start, warm up to operating temperature, some idling, some steady cruising, and a deceleration. It won't rquire anything special on your part.

I'd look for a cracked, plugged, or pinched line to the MAP sensor for that code. The pedal position sensor is probably the one that started it all. It's inside, under the dash, on the pedal. Before you start replacing parts, double check that you didn't leave a ground connection loose on...

I went with a NAPA battery. Just plug that Mopar part number into google, select the shopping tab, and go wth the cheapest. That's what I did.

These are Mods. :LOL: https://rarehistoricalphotos.com/mods-vs-rockers/

Under load could be spark plug, a coil, or even the boot on the coil. I'm surprised it hasn't set off the check engone light and a code yet.

It's normal to light up as a bulb check on startup. It lasts a little longer than you'd want, but as long as it goes out, you're fine.

I always think of this when I read gumbo

We bought this Prime Rib in anticipation of Christmas, but it didn;t get used so it's been taking up a bit of freezer space. So today it spent a few hours on the Weber. It takes a long time to cook 13 lbs of Prime Rib!

I'd say the answer is probably. The difference in diameter between your tires and the stock 275/65R18s is about 3" 1½" on the lower half is no big deal, but adding 1½" up inside the fenders could get a little tight without a lift. Crawl underneath and look for spacers or aftermaret-looking...

I wonder what the figures will be if you use 87 octane and the knock sensor retards the timing? And yes, I know the knock sensor itself doesn't actually do anything but send a signal to the ECU. Get over yourself.

Suggest they might get stuck paying your legal fees as well and try to squeeze a little extra out of them. But take the money and run. It won't just be parts, it will be experienced, qualified technicians that won't exist if they're getting out of diesels. My two cents.

I know nothing of the eTorque system. My truck doesn't have it.

Not for me. Of course, I'm one of those weirdos who uses cruise control on the highway. Still, I got stuck in bumper-to bumper traffic the last time I came from Ventura, with two hours of stop and go, and I had no knee pan.

NAPA auto parts shows U-joints are available. And since the joint is secured with clips, not staking, it is serviceable.

It's a vacuum pump for the brakes. Variable valve timing and MDS can cause manifold vacuum to drop, which will affect the brake booster.

Get your build sheet. It will tell you what is on your truck. Find your VIN and add it to the end of this link https://www.ramtrucks.com/webselfservice/BuildSheetServlet?vin=