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I'd suspect the battery first. There are countless posts here wherein a "tested good" battery caused all kinds of electrical gremlins. Second thing I'd check (and it's not something easily done at home) is alternator pattern aka diode test. There are three sets of diodes and if one goes bad...

I dunno.... I could see going through a dip or a pothole or something and having it fly out onto the floor. And then me shifting around and crushing it with my heel. Or having it bounce under the seat in some spot where human hands won't reach. I'll leave my key in my pocket.

Front, 275/65R18 ground to fender 36 5/8 center to fender 21¾

Try cleaning the throttle body to smooth out the idle. Don't just hose it down with carb spray and don't use a wire brush. Too much spray and you run the risk of it getting into the throttle position sensor and motor. A brush may scratch things. Just wet a rag and scrub the edges of the...

29 miles

Is this the first time you've worked it that hard? Could be paint and preservatives burning off

Not required if the vehicle is under 80". Which is why they are standard on duallies but an option on single rear tires.

Sent. Now we'll see if the attachments are too big on either end.

The files are too big to attach here. Message me an your email and I'll try sending things that way.

Sounds right. I've got 4WD but otherwise the same setup and 56,000 miles and if all I do is city streets, I see 13-15. Sitting at stop lights just destroys fuel economy.

I did a =1&c[nodes][0]=6&o=date']search and it appears 30psi is normal on these engines.

There's a thread with a couple thousand replies discussing fuel economy. Check there. It's easy to blame the truck, but it's probably the nut behind the steering wheel mostly to blame.

This^ If the fan comes on (eventually) and the temperature immediately starts dropping, it's working. I don't look at the coolant temperature so much as the temperature gauge. If it's riding in the center, it's okay.

No, it will not effect fuel economy. It is well beyond the oxygen sensors.

Need more info. Where is that connection? And are there threads cut into that flange? It might not need a nut. Generally, nothing should come out. But if that's after the rear O2 sensor, it doesn't matter. It'll just be louder than it should be, and probably not by much. There will always be...

For gas. Without it, you'll never be able to add gas from a gas can.

Yep. This is what I was going to write.

The factory diagrams stink, but here goes.

I think it's just to keep the fender from flapping at speed. It wasn't designed to be a support.

Unless the shocks are somehow adjustable, it's fine. I have some Snap-on sockets that fit on the top of shocks and I don't know how many I've installed by holding the wrench while spinning the shaft with an air ratchet.