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I would start looking for an unplugged connector. Someone may have had the console out and got careless.
All the AC outlets share the same inverter, so you can rule out a fuse for that one
I'll save you some searching.
https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/looking-to-add-aux-switches-using-the-homelink-buttons-to-control-lightbars-diy-how-to-for-under-20.34811/#post-499994
What's wrong with the "Ignore" feature? Just hover over the name, wait for the popup, then slide the cursor down and click Ignore. No software update needed.
But 2500s did. Go figure.
https://notthebee.com/article/study-shows-the-cars-most-likely-to-be-ticketed-for-a-dui-and-one-car-is-twice-as-likely-as-the-national-average
Twice in four years I've had the same thing. Hard brake pedal, no start. Extreme pushing on the brake got things to work and it was fine for months - even years - after. And I don't have eTorque I have no clue what it is, but it likely has nothing to do with the eTorque.
Dash lights may cure themselves if you are just patient. There are countless posts here about dash lights after battery disconnect/replacement. So it's too early to panic about that.
If you have power and the bulbs are good, then I'd look for a bad ground. Forget the fuses - grab a voltmeter...
This got me curious, so I looked within 25 miles. There's only 4. I picked one to randomly check. 4X4 with skid plates, floor mats, trailer mirrors, trailer brakes, bed utility group. And the V6. They're gonna end up warrantying the battery before it sells.
Another one that I am surprised...
I haven't noticed it locking out 8th gear, but it does disable MDS.
It also downshifts to hold speed when you have your foot off the pedal on downgrades.
I use Tow/haul often.
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