How big have you towed? w/Pics no tricks!

[NDanecker]

The reason why I avoid "more unsafe than X" type arguments is because we're not talking about X and it is often cherry picked to give weight to the real argument the guy is trying to make. So you post "driving over the speed limit is unsafe". Again, cherry picked, technically it's true but you picked that example to try and bolster your argument.

Myself I would sooner compare it to "driving while under the influence". Your argument then is basically: "I, as an experienced drinker who regularly drives after having had some drinks, am safer than my kid who has never driven under the influence but is just starting to learn how". I mean, there might be some truth to it, the more you experience driving while intoxicated, the more you might learn to cope with it and work around it. But it's still a very bad idea.

See why I avoid this type of argument? You pick "driving over the speed limit" to show how banal and silly my worry is, and I pick "driving while intoxicated" to prove how worrisome and wrong your behaviour is.

In the end, we're not talking about speed limits or intoxication, we're talking about overloading a truck past the manufacturers ratings. It is never advisable, and should never be so carelessly approved and admitted on a public forum where other people get the wrong impression.

If you avoid these arguments then why do you keep posting responses?

I agree. You can cherry pick analogies to make a debate look favorable to one side or the other. But I digress....

You feel a truck/trailer setup that is at or below the mfg specs to be safe, and one that is 10 lbs over to be unsafe, careless, reckless and similar to DUI. I respectfully disagree.

 

[silver billet]

If you avoid these arguments then why do you keep posting responses?

Because you guys keep posting that it's safe. It's not. And I'm not against arguing the issue (are you overweight or not), I'm against trying to validate your argument by cherry picking analogies. Some do work better than others, and we each try to pick the one that suits are bias. (Yes, we're both biased.)

You feel a truck/trailer setup that is at or below the mfg specs to be safe, and one that is 10 lbs over to be unsafe, careless, reckless and similar to DUI. I respectfully disagree.

No. Let's not pretend that I'm flipping at switch immediately at 10 pounds over the limit (why do you keep twisting my words?) I'd argue that approaching 90% of your truck's capacity in one limit or another, then you need a bigger tool for the job.

If you actually wanted to understand my view on this; the DUI works because it's a threshold. You shouldn't EVER drink and drive. But 5 drinks in 2 hours is worse than 4, which is the approx limit where I live (depending on your individual gender, body and weight). But if you're already feeling the third drink quite strongly and debating whether you can possibly squeak in a 4'th before edging past the limit in a blood test, well you're not fooling anyone other than yourself. In the same way, you shouldn't ever hit your max specs on your truck. When you start to approach them, you're in the wrong truck.

So: the spec is not a hard limit where immediately before you're fine and immediately after your not. But you shouldn't ever reach it in the first place.

 

[NDanecker]

So: the spec is not a hard limit where immediately before you're fine and immediately after your not.

I agree 100%.

But you shouldn't ever reach it in the first place.

I disagree 100%.

Engineers design equipment to meet a specific target so it can carry loads inside the warranty envelope without failure. Most designs have a FOS of 2 or more depending on how much the design has control to outside forces, impact loads, etc. To say you need a bigger truck when approaching those target loads is pure opinion.

 

[silver billet]

To say you need a bigger truck when approaching those target loads is pure opinion.

Yes it is. As is saying you can safely go past manufacturer specs. The 90% thing is my personal target limit, mainly because who actually puts their truck on a scale every trip and measures it. Most people start with what they know (dry weight) and do their best to estimate the rest, so the remaining 10% is wiggle room and safety buffer. It's also better around for everything, your truck will last longer. Funny though, none of the articles or videos I've looked at actually recommend exceeding your specs or even suggesting it's safe if you do it. Neither will the inspector agree with you if you happen to be caught doing it in a state/region where they happen to care. So apparently some opinions are more correct than others

 

[hdgmctruck04]

Thanks for all the info. I kept doing more research and discovered that timbren makes a similar product. I do not favor either brand but happened to find a set of timbrens for $180 on the etrailer site which were significantly cheaper than sumos so I went with those, I hope I don't regret my decision. I didn't know anything about this category of helper springs so thanks for posting. I'm excited to see how my tow experience will be now.

I would love feedback on how the Timbren's are compared to the Sumo's. Basically the same item, just different material. Rubber vs a foam.

 

[CornTrucks]

What's the max speed of them that farm tires? 25mph is common. Don't risk it. Get a trailer.

These sprayers are routinely towed in the 55mph range.

 

[VernDiesel]

hdgmctruck, Timbren's are just a bigger snubber thats not as hard or harsh as its a sealed block of air instead of a solid chunk of rubber. They are far from good but they are cheap and won't leak. I have not used Sumo urethane springs but they have to have a better transition, weighted ride, and unloading or dampening than the Timbrens. Timbrens really jump off a speed bump or washboard road especially unloaded or lightly loaded. A urethane spring won't do that. Urethane springs will to a point and slowly crush under weight but if you are only looking to carry an extra 1,000 or 1,500 pounds that they are rated for (for a half ton truck) they should work really well and not have to deal with raising or lowering air pressure as you do in a traditional air bag.

I run a quality axle the frame bag setup much like you see on a semi. Downside being you might have to raise or lower air pressure and they can leak over time. But a quality system won't. 660k towing commercially with my pick up and have had one issue in 6 years. Cheapy $100 in coil bags not so much. In the past I've used Timbrens but I'm spoiled now and would only use a quality axle to frame bag setup or the urethane springs. Oh and you don't need an expensive on board air compressor. A cheap mini pump that you can get at Harbor Freight Wallmart wherever will stow under your seat & air it up quickly & easily. An extra 1,000 or 1,500 pounds on your truck is comfortably supported by 15 or 20 psi. Most people just set them at 5 to 10 psi enjoy the improved ride and only need to add air when they have something really heavy to carry or tow.

SSR-307-40 | SumoSprings Rear for Dodge RAM 1500 | SuperSprings® International, Inc.

Sold as a pair (left and right) Maintenance-free Enhances load carrying ability 1000 (lb) Capacity at 50% Compression Reduces and stabilizes sway Improves overall driver control and ride comfort Compress up to 80% of original height with full memory rebound One-piece unit attached on one...

www.supersprings.com

09'-18' RAM 1500 — Timber Grove Enterprises, LLC

timbergroveenterprises.com

 

[Pandyman]

Towed a John Deere 35d today weighs in right around 6,500 and the trailer is right around 6,500 as well. Pulled surprisingly well for a half ton I thought. Did turn up the electric brakes just a little but but the truck did not struggle much to move it.

 

[Manny1319]

Travel trailer

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[VernDiesel]

Pandyman you may want to weigh that trailer it’s likely a lot less than 6,500.

Manny whoops you need to be on all 3 scale pads with hitch attached. It’s how the scale is used as a tool to adjust your axle weight distribution or WDH & loading for proper safety stability & legality.

Ideally weigh just your truck with the steer axle on the steer axle pad and the drive axle on the Drive Axle pad. Then weigh it again with TT attached with trailer axles on the trailer axles pad. All three together becomes very useable numbers & a tool instead of just novelty information. Many don’t know this as it’s not taught to the student or TT buyer unless he seeks it out, stumbles across it or it’s explained by someone in the know.

Additional weighs are usually only 2 or 3 dollars.

 

[GraniteRamTowRig]

I towed my TJ from NJ to PA and back. I would figure it had to be around 5k or 6k. I did it with a Uhaul designed to be loaded tongue heavy. I'm hoping to find another trailer rental company with better designed trailers with electric brakes.

View attachment 43957

That parking lot looks awfully familiar... Rausch Creek In tremont?

 

[Boston]

Pandyman you may want to weigh that trailer it’s likely a lot less than 6,500.

Manny whoops you need to be on all 3 scale pads with hitch attached. It’s how the scale is used as a tool to adjust your axle weight distribution or WDH & loading for proper safety stability & legality.

Ideally weigh just your truck with the steer axle on the steer axle pad and the drive axle on the Drive Axle pad. Then weigh it again with TT attached with trailer axles on the trailer axles pad. All three together becomes very useable numbers & a tool instead of just novelty information. Many don’t know this as it’s not taught to the student or TT buyer unless he seeks it out, stumbles across it or it’s explained by someone in the know.

Additional weighs are usually only 2 or 3 dollars.

Took the weigh scale words out of my mouth.
Take another look at the travel scale and you see three pads. Just re position the combination so you have front truck axle on the front pad, truck rear axle on middle and trailers on third.

 

[intelligence209]

Took the weigh scale words out of my mouth.
Take another look at the travel scale and you see three pads. Just re position the combination so you have front truck axle on the front pad, truck rear axle on middle and trailers on third.

I also went a step further and disconnected my trailer and had the hitch rest on the middle pad giving me my trailers tongue weight.

From there with simple math you'll have your trailers actual weight adding 3rd and 2nd pads. Adding water you can do basic math knowing how much weight your adding from there. (For those who are reading this that may be new)

 

[Ramster]

This was my first real trailer tow since I was a teenager (I'm 60). I actually towed this just 5 miles a few months ago when I bought it, this tow was only an hour trip. Did some mud maneuvers to get it backed in. I was in 4wd spinning tires and wishing I had waited til next week. I should have taken a pic of the mess I made in front of the truck. Dry weight 6680 Lbs. with dry hitch weight rated at 500 Lbs. with around 50 gal. in propane and a couple hundred Lbs. in gear in the trailer (empty water tanks). Truck had me, the wife and another couple hundred in gear and around 18 gallons of gas. With using the Andersen hitch the trailer felt pretty good going down a two lane highway.

 

[Bigdaveincali]

Truck has only the factory air suspension. The mount is the B&W GNRK1319 "Turnoverball" Gooseneck hitch, and the fifth wheel mount is an Andersen's Ultimate 5th Wheel Connection Toolbox Model # 3220-TBX . The only thing that I do not like about it is the fact that it places the pin over the axle. The adapter on the trailer kingpin box is set to move the kingpin forward, but the geometry still looks to set the weight back over the axle. Although the truck and suspension seem to handle the load well, I am not sure if I like the roll produced by the goose neck to trailer ball mount on the top. I was used to a standard fifth wheel plate mound which is somewhat more stable and produces less body roll while cornering at low speeds and tight turns in RV parks. I previously used a Husky 16000k hitch with slider on my Duramax, and am looking at changing to a Demco 5th wheel base rail adapter and going back to the Husky. The reason I am using the Andersen is that I traded my Chevy for the Ram 1500 Limited while traveling, and at the time it was the only option and the dealer paid for it and the install when I made the deal.
Hope that answers your questions.

Nothing better than a Pullrite 5th wheel hitch

 

[NH_Ram]

Been researching the forum for months on lifts/tires and saw this thread. First decent tow was my Cub Cadet 45hp tractor. Just under 9k lbs total. Trailer is a PJ 20ft at 2500lbs empty. Used a weight distribution hitch and pumped up rear tires to 50psi. Towed just as well as my 2013 F350 gas that this truck replaced.

2019 1500 4x4 North Edition with max tow package, Hemi eTorque and 3.92 rear.

 

[NDanecker]

I saw Cub Cadet and thought that's a lawn mower. What's the big deal. Then I opened the photo. LOL Nice tractor!

 

[Jeffjad]

I would love feedback on how the Timbren's are compared to the Sumo's. Basically the same item, just different material. Rubber vs a foam.

Well after a 2.5 hour tow with the timbren SES installed the ride is way to harsh for my liking so I am going to return them and go with the sumos which seem to have a little more forgiveness after reading more reviews. Should have listened to you from the get go

 

[Jus Cruisin]

After selling my car hauler last fall, I haven't had anything to tow. That'll get fixed next week. I really won't tow much though just when I want to go Lake Michigan for a change of scenery. It'll be on Lake St Clair on a rack most of the time.


This was the car hauler.

 

[ktl5005]