First oil change advice

[cj7]

Back in the day, many car manufacturers recommended changing the oil after break-in. I‘ve changed the oil on every new car at 1000 to 2000 mi.

Fast forward to 2020...my new 1500 5.7e now has about 1500mi (trouble-free, I’m very happily surprised to say) and I’m getting the itch...so, a couple questions:
- any reason NOT to change the oil after the first 2k?
- anybody know what the factory fill is?
- 5w-20 is recommended; how horrible would it be to use full syn 5w-30?
- what’s the secret for not making a huge mess when changing the oil filter?

thx!

 

[Patsy1099]

Lots of threads on this. I think the consensus is that you will make a mess the first time getting the filter off. Maybe let the dealer do it the first time just to loosen that factory filter. As far as interval, personal preference. Change it at 2k if it makes you happy. I’d stick with recommended weight.

 

[Jako]

I think Patsy 1099 sums it very well, particularly let the dealer do the first oil change to take the factory oil filter off.

 

[Diamondback]

I changed mine at 1,000 "just because" .. no reason not to, but you don't NEED to either.

With all the issues the new HEMI has with shelling out Cams & Lifters, I'm going to treat mine like any Chevy I've ever owned -- change the oil "often" and make sure the oil pressure never falls below 15psi (or so).

 

[smankins]

I did my first oil change a few weeks ago and did not have much trouble removing the oil filter. I was dreading it after reading all the tales about a "gorilla" putting the filter on at the factory but I guess I got lucky and he was sick on the day my truck was built. I used a filter wrench like this. After it was loose I used a ziploc bag on it and contained most of the oil when removing the filter.
The dealer where I bought it said the first oil change would be free but that would have been a 100 mile round trip so I just did it myself. I used a piece of cardboard under the oil drain to try and guide the oil into my catch pan. I replaced the drain plug with a Fumoto valve so the next change would be simpler and cleaner.

 

[mikeru82]

Back in the day, many car manufacturers recommended changing the oil after break-in. I‘ve changed the oil on every new car at 1000 to 2000 mi.

Fast forward to 2020...my new 1500 5.7e now has about 1500mi (trouble-free, I’m very happily surprised to say) and I’m getting the itch...so, a couple questions:
- any reason NOT to change the oil after the first 2k?

There is never a reason NOT to change the oil, other than it being wasteful and unnecessary. Change it as often as you like if it makes you more comfortable. I changed mine at around 1000 miles, like any other new vehicle I buy. Then I stick to the manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals. The only real way to know if you are changing it too often is to have your used oil analyzed by a lab.

- anybody know what the factory fill is?

No idea for sure, but I've read it's a synthetic blend of 5w-20.

- 5w-20 is recommended; how horrible would it be to use full syn 5w-30?

I would stick with 5w-20 unless you live in an area with high temps. I use full synthetic 5w-20 year-round.

- what’s the secret for not making a huge mess when changing the oil filter?

I use a quart size zip loc bag and only spill a few drops. I didn't experience any problems removing the factory oil filter, and it wasn't a factor in making any more of a mess.

 

[Diamondback]

Make sure you "over tighten" the filter a bit more than you would on any other vehicle. For some reason, these love to back off the filter over time .. I've checked mine twice and had to twist a bit.

I, too, use 5w20 Synth.

We had a few write-ups in other posts regarding what people use while changing oil to keep the mess off the front when pulling the filter.

If you look down at the bottom of this page, you can see "Similar Threads" and use those as some reading material as well

 

[Cravenfan]

I had mine in for some accessory work at about 2k miles...had them change the oil, filter, etc, probably old school, new vehicle, break in period, etc. but for $60 or whatever, peace of mind for me. Won't change the next round until the DIC tells me to, which probably will be in 7,500-10k more miles.

 

[Nibis]

I did my first oil change a few weeks ago and did not have much trouble removing the oil filter. I was dreading it after reading all the tales about a "gorilla" putting the filter on at the factory but I guess I got lucky and he was sick on the day my truck was built. I used a filter wrench like this. After it was loose I used a ziploc bag on it and contained most of the oil when removing the filter.
The dealer where I bought it said the first oil change would be free but that would have been a 100 mile round trip so I just did it myself. I used a piece of cardboard under the oil drain to try and guide the oil into my catch pan. I replaced the drain plug with a Fumoto valve so the next change would be simpler and cleaner.

Hey, do you have the info on the Fumoto valve

 

[LamboMitch]

def cheap insurance. the whole leave oil for 10k is ********..if you saw what that oil looked like in 3k why anyone would want to leave it till 10k is beyond me. a big reason for it is for the manufacture to lower the cost of ownership for maintenance. however it creates way more cost on the back end. pay little bit over time or a lot more later....

 

[mikeru82]

def cheap insurance. the whole leave oil for 10k is ********..if you saw what that oil looked like in 3k why anyone would want to leave it till 10k is beyond me. a big reason for it is for the manufacture to lower the cost of ownership for maintenance. however it creates way more cost on the back end. pay little bit over time or a lot more later....

Going by how the oil looks doesn't give you the whole story. How it looks is also affected by things like the age of the engine, fuel type, service history, use conditions, and brand and type of oil used. In an older diesel engine, you might see the oil turn black as night within 30 seconds of starting the engine after an oil change. Doesn't mean the oil needs to be changed, just that there is a lot of soot in the engine. The only way to truely know when it's time to change the oil is with a used oil analysis. It's fine if you want to change your oil more often than necessary. It's your money and your truck.

 

[cj7]

Hey, do you have the info on the Fumoto valve

what info do you need? here is my install, with a slight mod...

 

[Jako]

what info do you need? here is my install, with a slight mod...

View attachment 52739

Valvomax is another brand. Purchased but I have to wait for the oil change to install.

ValvoMax Oil Drain System

Frustrated with your DIY oil change? ValvoMax removes the hassle. Replace your drain bolt with the Quick Twist valve. Made of solid 304 Stainless Steel, the valve simplifies your oil change. Save time, eliminate tools, and conserve the environment. Veteran-owned. Made in USA

www.valvomax.com

 

[Nibis]

what info do you need? here is my install, with a slight mod...

View attachment 52739

I was wondering which one you used, part number, as I see there are a few that will work, and why did you pick that one over the others. I have always wanted to install one, but it would never work out in my other cars. Nice safety wire job !
Thanks

 

[cj7]

I was wondering which one you used, part number, as I see there are a few that will work, and why did you pick that one over the others. I have always wanted to install one, but it would never work out in my other cars. Nice safety wire job !
Thanks

Thx. I used the F106SX. For me, it was about draining without soaking the ranti-roll bar and splattering all over the place. So, the right angle version worked best. Also got their SH-10 and SL-10 plastic hose barb fittings, which snap on the outlet, just in case.

The safety wire isn’t required, but I’m paranoid. Did have to drill the holes myself.

I am curious to see how long it takes to drain, but it is a high quality product. Happy so far.

 

[smankins]

Hey, do you have the info on the Fumoto valve

Here is the one I used - fumoto valve. I had one on my 2006 Ram 3500 since 2006 and it is still on there and never gave me any issues.

 

[Ride2little]

I just changed my oil for the first time. At just over 2000 miles, I feel better about the initial change. Plus I get to know the underside of my new rig better.
I'm a 5000 mile interval guy, so the next change I'll stretch out to 7000 or so just to get it back on to the even 5000 miles (so it's easy for me to visualize).
The change was simple enough. I found the drain plug to be no big deal. It'll keep the sway clean and shiny. The filter however, what a crappy place to be. I made a huge mess. the oil followed a channel on the underside plating to way away from my drain pan. It ended up puddling in the driveway (which drives me NUTS). I changed the filter and cleaned it all up. the filter itself was no problem. It was the factory Mopar one. I used another Mopar filter. I saw someone on here recommending a funnel with a hose which makes good sense. One of the few tools I don't have. Yet.
I also switched over to Pennzoil Platinum 5W20 and as mentioned, I bought a coupe of Mopar filters. Just cleaning up the filter swap will be a big plus. This ain't my Toyota FJ Cruiser where an oil change was a clean, 15-minute effort.
As for the Fumoto valve. I had one on the FJ when I was putting a lot of miles on. It worked great and had many road and offroad miles on. But I ended up removing it. It seemed to restrict oil flow on removal. I always felt like I wanted to take it off to get the last bit of oil out. the 90 degree angle one looks worse. Just my thoughts. I'm sure it's just the anal in me. As mentioned, it worked fine for a long time, and I had my FJ for a time which had 230,000 miles when I sold it.
Kramer-Out.

 

[brian42]

def cheap insurance. the whole leave oil for 10k is ********..if you saw what that oil looked like in 3k why anyone would want to leave it till 10k is beyond me. a big reason for it is for the manufacture to lower the cost of ownership for maintenance. however it creates way more cost on the back end. pay little bit over time or a lot more later....

I guess I'm ********.

My oil looked pretty good on the dipstick and wasn't too bad when I changed it at 10K miles (PUP 5-20 full synthetic). You won't clear all the old oil out with a regular change so that will "contaminate" the new oil going in and discolor it quicker.

If I was using straight dino oil I'd change it at 5K miles like I did in my last truck (my diesel was rough on oil). With all this new technology (in oil and maufacturing) I don't see a reason to change it early (again, if it's full synthetic). "Back in the day" I changed oil every 3K miles, put in new spark plugs every 10-15K miles, and checked/adjusted the timing every couple of months.

In an older diesel engine, you might see the oil turn black as night within 30 seconds of starting the engine after an oil change.

My last truck was a 2003 Ford diesel and the oil was black as night within 500 miles.

 

[Silver Black]

I'm a 5000 mile interval guy . . .

Same. I'll be doing my first oil change at <1,000 miles and the second at 5,000. Then every 5K after that.

Overkill? Perhaps. But 5K synthetic oil changes netted ~300K on a 5.9L Gen 2 that still has a strong running engine.

 

[Stinger19]

Glad it wasn't just me who thought a gorilla put the factory installed oil filter on. HOLY CRAP....I've never had a filter so tight before!! The oil gushed out of the oil pan with crazy velocity too. I made a mess in my driveway and normally I don't spill a drop. I guess it had to happen sometime because I prefer changing my own oil. I'm definitely going to do the ziploc bag trick next time for the oil filter.