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What did you do to your Ram today???

brawler1588

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Ride quality didn’t seem to change, maybe feels more planted and handles better in turns.


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Should one be concerned about the safety of spacers on a daily driving truck are they a week point or anything ?

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aametzger

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Should one be concerned about the safety of spacers on a daily driving truck are they a week point or anything ?

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I installed the bora spacers, and feel that they are very well made. I personally am not concerned, as I have ran various types of spacers on different vehicles over the years. I am not going to give any official statement about the safety of spacers, I would recommend reaching out the the mfg if you want an official stance. I am not concerned personally. I think the key Is to get quality spacers. ( I’m not saying bora are the only quality spacers, just the ones that I felt are well made.)

Hope that helps.


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aametzger

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I got a couple of temp pieces of lightly tinted clear vinyl installed over the Bronze to try to tone down the brightness/ eliminate color clash in bright light. They put a piece above the right headlight and on the rear door handle. I think it might be close to the final color. The only downside is it makes it more brown than bronze, but I think it definitely goes better with the body color.

What do you guys think?
 

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gotmeahemi

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I got a couple of temp pieces of lightly tinted clear vinyl installed over the Bronze to try to tone down the brightness/ eliminate color clash in bright light. They put a piece above the right headlight and on the rear door handle. I think it might be close to the final color. The only downside is it makes it more brown than bronze, but I think it definitely goes better with the body color.

What do you guys think?

I like the direction it’s going but I think maybe a shade darker still would work more. I actually think the brown is just as different as the bronze but looks better with the GCM...just my half a cent.


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Ellisstrong

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I got a couple of temp pieces of lightly tinted clear vinyl installed over the Bronze to try to tone down the brightness/ eliminate color clash in bright light. They put a piece above the right headlight and on the rear door handle. I think it might be close to the final color. The only downside is it makes it more brown than bronze, but I think it definitely goes better with the body color.

What do you guys think?
I think that bronze would look good with my white
 

JDiMassa8

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Well I didn’t really do anything to my truck but I did get a new iPhone and took a night photo at 7:15 last night. At that time it is pretty dark but the night camera is great. More photos when I get some new tires for this. I wish this was the color delmonico looked during the day. 009805FC-4AE0-4974-8385-A71CB8059C01.jpeg
 

StuartV

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I think we are saying the same thing. What I meant was when you start the paperwork the dealer/manufacturer does not want it to be declared a lemon therefore the current owner will have negotiating leverage up until the day of arbitration. Once arbitration concludes and/if it is declared a lemon, it is a done deal.

Almost the same thing.

I was just trying to make the point that I think they don't want you to even file that initial paperwork. So, maximum leverage is before you do that - but after you have done everything to meet the LL requirements.

At least, that was the impression I got when I had a truck buyback in FL. I got the impression (it's been a while, so I don't remember exactly) that filing that initial paperwork would somehow count against the manufacturer (no matter how it all ended up), so it was best to start negotiating for a buyback before you do the initial paperwork.

I don't see how it can hurt anyway.
 

Patsy1099

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Almost the same thing.

I was just trying to make the point that I think they don't want you to even file that initial paperwork. So, maximum leverage is before you do that - but after you have done everything to meet the LL requirements.

At least, that was the impression I got when I had a truck buyback in FL. I got the impression (it's been a while, so I don't remember exactly) that filing that initial paperwork would somehow count against the manufacturer (no matter how it all ended up), so it was best to start negotiating for a buyback before you do the initial paperwork.

I don't see how it can hurt anyway.

Nothing is official until the case is decided by an arbiter, then it gets affixed to the title. Until then it is just a negotiation with threatening paperwork. I would definitely agree that you should be negotiating along the way, before filing. Sometimes you will have success without filing paperwork and other times they call your bluff and don’t get serious until you file. I’ve had success both ways but it’s also been a while. I much prefer not having to go the legal route.
 

19R3B3L

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Loving the Bronze! Making me want to go that route with my Rebel!

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19R3B3L

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I got a couple of temp pieces of lightly tinted clear vinyl installed over the Bronze to try to tone down the brightness/ eliminate color clash in bright light. They put a piece above the right headlight and on the rear door handle. I think it might be close to the final color. The only downside is it makes it more brown than bronze, but I think it definitely goes better with the body color.

What do you guys think?
Loving the Bronze! Making me want to go that route with my Rebel! Keep it up

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jaydeebee24

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Got my exhaust done the other day. Swapped the muffler with a 14 inch Magnaflow (#14239) and had the two rear resonators deleted. Turned out great. Quiets down at cruising speed. I can hear the difference in sound when the MDS kicks in, but it definitely doesn't sound like a drone. Got the idea from a couple other people here on the forums with this same setup.




 

StuartV

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Nothing is official until the case is decided by an arbiter

I'm not sure how you can make a blanket statement like that, with confidence that it is true in every single state.

In FL, the process starts with filing paperwork. The vehicle may ultimately be declared and lemon and required to be bought back, or it may not. But, my impression from my go-round with Ford was that they really did not want that initial paperwork filed.

Perhaps there are statistics for number of lemon law cases filed, regardless of outcome? And they want to keep that stat down? Or maybe it's simply that, if you do start the paperwork and they do end up buying it back, it is noted as a lemon, whether there was arbitration or a judgment or whatever, or not. I mean, if that's not the case, it would be a pretty big loophole for the manufacturers. If it didn't work like that, they could deny every case, forcing the consumer to go the full length every time - even when it's OBVIOUS that it's a lemon - and then at the very last minute before a final judgment, cave in and buy it back in order to avoid that notation on the title.

Making it where the title is noted as lemon in any case where the claim is started and the vehicle is ultimately bought back (judgment or not) seems like the only way a lemon law could really work well, in favor of the consumer. The manufacturer's incentive SHOULD be to keep you from starting a claim. The incentive to the manufacturer should NOT be to simply fight the consumer to the bitter end of the process to keep them from getting an actual judgment.

I don't know. I just know that I would recommend to anyone to start negotiating for a buy back BEFORE you file ANY Lemon Law paperwork (i.e. before doing anything to start a Lemon Law claim). Take that as far as you can before starting a claim.
 

Patsy1099

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I'm not sure how you can make a blanket statement like that, with confidence that it is true in every single state.

In FL, the process starts with filing paperwork. The vehicle may ultimately be declared and lemon and required to be bought back, or it may not. But, my impression from my go-round with Ford was that they really did not want that initial paperwork filed.

Perhaps there are statistics for number of lemon law cases filed, regardless of outcome? And they want to keep that stat down? Or maybe it's simply that, if you do start the paperwork and they do end up buying it back, it is noted as a lemon, whether there was arbitration or a judgment or whatever, or not. I mean, if that's not the case, it would be a pretty big loophole for the manufacturers. If it didn't work like that, they could deny every case, forcing the consumer to go the full length every time - even when it's OBVIOUS that it's a lemon - and then at the very last minute before a final judgment, cave in and buy it back in order to avoid that notation on the title.

Making it where the title is noted as lemon in any case where the claim is started and the vehicle is ultimately bought back (judgment or not) seems like the only way a lemon law could really work well, in favor of the consumer. The manufacturer's incentive SHOULD be to keep you from starting a claim. The incentive to the manufacturer should NOT be to simply fight the consumer to the bitter end of the process to keep them from getting an actual judgment.

I don't know. I just know that I would recommend to anyone to start negotiating for a buy back BEFORE you file ANY Lemon Law paperwork (i.e. before doing anything to start a Lemon Law claim). Take that as far as you can before starting a claim.

I don’t want to get this thread too off topic and turn it into a legal thread, which could be helpful, but maybe best we start a different thread.

While the lemon law will vary from state to state, I believe the basic premise will be the same. Anyone can file a civil action against anyone for any reason, legitimate or not, and it won’t reflect negatively upon that person (defendant) unless the plaintiff wins...in court. Filing paperwork is nothing more than notice that the case will be presented to the court. Some cases win, some lose, many get dismissed on “summary judgement” which means the case lacks enough merit or evidence to move forward.

Nobody wants an action filed against them, including the dealer. It’s another headache and expense of a lawyer (if they don’t have one on retainer), whereas a plaintiff doesn’t really need a lawyer since a lemon case is pretty easy to file (a lawyer is always better though). So I think it comes down to how strong the case is. If it’s a strong case the dealer will know that and will not want an action commenced which will mean you will have good negotiating leverage.

But it doesn’t make sense that simply filing an action will reflect negatively upon the dealer/manufacture because anyone can file an action even if it’s frivolous and that wouldn’t be fair to them if a bunch of disgruntled owners filed frivolous claims if that automatically was a ding against them. I would say if you have a strong claim, you have strong negotiating leverage and if your requests are reasonable they might be met but sometimes you may to to initiate a claim for them to know you’re serious. If you have a weak claim that doesn’t meet the threshold for a lemon case, nobody will care if you file because you will lose and your threats and your paperwork filing will be meaningless.
 

StuartV

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I don’t want to get this thread too off topic and turn it into a legal thread, which could be helpful, but maybe best we start a different thread.

[snip]

But it doesn’t make sense that simply filing an action will reflect negatively upon the dealer/manufacture

Agreed.

I didn't say that simply filing an action would reflect negatively. I said that starting a claim AND having a subsequent buyback (even if there is no judgment - i.e. even if it is "settled") could reflect negatively. If the particular state's lemon law is written to be the most helpful to the consumer.

In other words, there are (at least) 2 ways a LL could be written.

Version A) Nothing negative happens to the manufacturer until there is a judgment (from a court or arbitration) against the manufacturer. So, if the consumer starts a claim, works through the process for, potentially, months, possibly paying a lawyer the whole time, and then just at the end, the manufacturer says "okay, we'll just go ahead and buy it back", then there is never a judgment against them, so they probably end up buying back every lemon with almost no negative marks.

Version B) If a person starts a Lemon Law claim, then if the manufacturer ends up buying the vehicle back (whether the buyback is voluntary or mandatory) the title is noted as a Lemon. So, if you presume that a particular vehicle will qualify as a lemon under the state's law, then the only way for the manufacturer to prevent getting a negative mark is to make sure the customer never goes as far as starting the LL claim process.

I don't know how every state's law is written. But, my experience in FL was that Ford handled my situation as if it was Version B of the law.

If a person is in a state with a Lemon Law that is like Version B, then starting the LL claim process means they are shooting themselves in the foot. At that point, they have given away all their negotiating power, because no matter what happens after that, if the manufacturer does a buyback the manufacturer is taking the maximum damage. So, in a case like that, by starting the process at all, the consumer has put the manufacturer in a position where the manufacturer only has 2 options: Fight the LL as hard as they can. Or, somehow convince the consumer to keep the vehicle. Once the paperwork is filed, the manufacturer has zero incentive to do anything more than the absolute minimum that the law requires.

Anyway, we're splitting hairs.

I won't make blanket statements about how Lemon Laws work in every different state. But, I will make the blanket statement that, if you are contemplating starting a Lemon Law action, you should talk to your dealer and/or a manufacturer's rep first. Do everything you can to make a deal before you start the action. If they won't play ball, then start the claim process and stick it to 'em hard!
 

kipeharris

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Just installed ceramic tint.... What are everyone's thoughts on ceramic? I did 5% in the back and I am afraid it is toooo dark.
 

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securityguy

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Just installed ceramic tint.... What are everyone's thoughts on ceramic? I did 5% in the back and I am afraid it is toooo dark.
A good ceramic is definitely the way to go. I, for one, would never use less than 20% on the rears but that's just me.
 

StuartV

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I got ceramic tint. It does seem like it really helped keep my truck cooler inside when it was hot back in July and August.

I got max legal, which was 50% on the front windows. I asked the installed to do 50% all around, but he said on the back I wouldn't be able to tell the difference from the stock 20% if he only put 50% on top of it. He recommended putting 30% on the back windows, so I agreed.

I wish I had not listened to him and had stuck to my plan of 50% all around. The back windows are now darker than I would like. It makes it harder than I would like to see out the back and sides at night, if I'm somewhere dark.

I can't even imagine having 5% on there. The back is already 20% from the factory. 5% of 20% means you only have 1% of the light coming through now...
 

v_eight

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Today I installed the Mopar tailgate damper since my Big Horn did not come with one.


Bought from my local dealer for $44. Install took less than 10 minutes.
 

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