Air conditioning Hack

[Zeronet]

I still have to ask . . . All those of you that are installing the "valve".....What are you doing IF/WHEN you have to take the vehicle in for service on something?
Surely that is going to be noticed (although a/c might not be what your service issue is).
How are you going to explain the "mod/valve"?

Likewise, the clamp clamp can be removed in seconds and undetectable (and will only remain on during the remainder of the summer.

I used OEM style spring clamps when I installed my valve so the only tool needed is a pair of pliers. It literally went on in 2 minutes and most of that was freeing the “glued” hose from the hard line. I already had the valve and short piece of hose preassembled and the second spring clamp prepositioned on the short hose. I expect it will come off with the same effort or less and restored to stock. Move 2 spring clamps 1” with a pair of pliers, pull the valve off, push hose back on and move spring clamp back. It’s not difficult at all. If that sounds too involved and you’re happy with the clamp then stay with that.

I wasn’t comfortable with the clamp, some are uncomfortable with the valve. Whatever works and you’re happy with.

 

[KcRay]

If you have a dealer denying warranty for putting a heater core shutoff in line, find a new dealer. There is no adverse impact on the vehicle and, by law, they cannot deny warranty unless they can show the modification caused the failure.

Although my AC was good without the valve, I gave it a try and the results are great. I was originally of the opinion that I should not have to modify a brand new truck. I am still of that opinion, except this modification was more like mudflaps or tint for me. Made a good truck better. I realize others have deficient AC. But, just because you should not have to put the mod on a new truck does not mean you should not put the mod on a new truck. Think of it as an aftermarket accessory and enjoy colder AC rather than suffering.

What a well put, simple way to explain the way lots of us think about this situation! "Touchdown"

 

[User_3336]

That's what I was thinking, however, some don't seem to be bothered with taking it in for service with the mod in place.

That is why I used clamps.

I intend to do the valve after I take the truck to it's appointment on this Thursday for poor A/C. Those that have done the valve, I assume that you plan to take it off and back to original if you have to take the truck back in for warranty work?

 

[ramhead]

If you have a dealer denying warranty for putting a heater core shutoff in line, find a new dealer. There is no adverse impact on the vehicle and, by law, they cannot deny warranty unless they can show the modification caused the failure.

Although my AC was good without the valve, I gave it a try and the results are great. I was originally of the opinion that I should not have to modify a brand new truck. I am still of that opinion, except this modification was more like mudflaps or tint for me. Made a good truck better. I realize others have deficient AC. But, just because you should not have to put the mod on a new truck does not mean you should not put the mod on a new truck. Think of it as an aftermarket accessory and enjoy colder AC rather than suffering.

That's great IF you want to take the risk that the dealer will be ok with it....and you don't know for sure whether there may ever be an adverse impact with the mod. So...if your A/C fails, you have a heater core issue, etc. you don't think they will try to deny warranty coverage if they find a non approved valve/alteration on said line??? At the very least they will TRY to deny coverage and make you jump through hoops and fight the issue...and they have much deeper pockets than you or any owner.

 

[User_3336]

100% agree.

That's great IF you want to take the risk that the dealer will be ok with it....and you don't know for sure whether there may ever be an adverse impact with the mod. So...if your A/C fails, you have a heater core issue, etc. you don't think they will try to deny warranty coverage if they find a non approved valve/alteration on said line??? At the very least they will TRY to deny coverage and make you jump through hoops and fight the issue...and they have much deeper pockets than you or any owner.

 

[Billet1500 4x4]

When you install permanent valve solution you will loose a little bit of coolant during process. Can I just add any orange (Dexcool) or Mopar makes it's own coolant bland? Manual only mentions OAT coolant (antifreeze) (conforming to MS.90032)

Depends on the manufacture of dexcool that you have. Mopar has their own and is probably the best bet so you know you're using what they want in there, you don't want to use a anti-freeze that has 2-EHA in it which some Dexcools did have in them a while back not sure if all of the Dexcools on the market have removed it from their formulas or not.

 

[saxapl]

That's great IF you want to take the risk that the dealer will be ok with it....and you don't know for sure whether there may ever be an adverse impact with the mod. So...if your A/C fails, you have a heater core issue, etc. you don't think they will try to deny warranty coverage if they find a non approved valve/alteration on said line??? At the very least they will TRY to deny coverage and make you jump through hoops and fight the issue...and they have much deeper pockets than you or any owner.

This is not something new...heater core shutoffs have been installed for years. In fact, some modern cars are designed to isolate the heater core as part of the system. There is no adverse impact. To believe shutting off coolant flow through a hose could cause disaster would invalidate the entire operation of engine cooling systems. Keep in mind, there is a coolant shutoff valve in line from the factory. It is called a thermostat.

I do not deny there may be unscrupulous dealers out there. But unless it is a coolant leak from where you installed the valve or overheating damage because you let the truck run out of coolant due to a leak, there will be no warranty repairs which could legitimately be denied because you have a temporary heater core isolation.

That being said, if you prefer a clamp, go ahead. If you have a bad dealer, I am sympathetic. I just think people should not be scared off by speculation about damage that has no mechanical basis. There is a lot of chicken little happening.

 

[Rob5589]

Unless the shop is working directly on the heating system the valve is likely to go unnoticed. On that same line of thinking, how many are removing the leveling spacers, control arms, exhaust, or other various modifications to their truck before taking it in?

 

[ColoradoCub]

That's great IF you want to take the risk that the dealer will be ok with it....and you don't know for sure whether there may ever be an adverse impact with the mod. So...if your A/C fails, you have a heater core issue, etc. you don't think they will try to deny warranty coverage if they find a non approved valve/alteration on said line??? At the very least they will TRY to deny coverage and make you jump through hoops and fight the issue...and they have much deeper pockets than you or any owner.

If your more concerned

When you install permanent valve solution you will loose a little bit of coolant during process. Can I just add any orange (Dexcool) or Mopar makes it's own coolant bland? Manual only mentions OAT coolant (antifreeze) (conforming to MS.90032)

Coolant for GM Cars | Collant For Ford Cars | Coolant For Chryslers/Dodge

PEAK Auto OET Coolant specifically formulated for GM, Ford and Chrysler/Dodge vehicles. Find the right coolant and where to buy at PEAK Auto.

peakauto.com

Most Auto Zone parts store stock this.

 

[User_3336]

Read your manual.
68163849AB
This the coolant you should be adding.

Chrysler released a new engine coolant for the 2013 model year vehicles and beyond, for all engine applications except for the 2013 MK equipped with the 2.3L diesel engine and the JC vehicle equipped with the 2.0L diesel engine.

The new coolant, dubbed OAT (organic additive technology), haa a service interval of 10 years or 150,000 miles. For heavy-duty truck and extreme-duty cycle applications, refer to the service information or owner’s manual for proper maintenance schedules.

CAUTION: Damage may occur if dissimilar coolants are mixed. Coolants of different technologies are not compatible nor interchangeable (OAT, HOAT or IAT). Mixing these coolants could result in accelerated corrosion within the engine and cooling systems. The coolant may have an ammonia odor, and/or debris particles may be floating in the coolant.

Further inspection may find corrosion in the system. This could show up as aluminum pipes turning black, engine overheating or leaks in the cooling system.

NOTE: If OAT (MOPAR P/N 68163849AB Purple) has been mixed with HOAT (MOPAR P/N 68048953AB Pink); or Factory Fill HOAT Orange or any other coolants have been mixed, it will be necessary to flush the cooling system.

 

[ColoradoCub]

Read your manual.
68163849AB
This the only coolant you should be adding.
View attachment 32858
Chrysler released a new engine coolant for the 2013 model year vehicles and beyond, for all engine applications except for the 2013 MK equipped with the 2.3L diesel engine and the JC vehicle equipped with the 2.0L diesel engine.

The new coolant, dubbed OAT (organic additive technology), haa a service interval of 10 years or 150,000 miles. For heavy-duty truck and extreme-duty cycle applications, refer to the service information or owner’s manual for proper maintenance schedules.

CAUTION: Damage may occur if dissimilar coolants are mixed. Coolants of different technologies are not compatible nor interchangeable (OAT, HOAT or IAT). Mixing these coolants could result in accelerated corrosion within the engine and cooling systems. The coolant may have an ammonia odor, and/or debris particles may be floating in the coolant.

Further inspection may find corrosion in the system. This could show up as aluminum pipes turning black, engine overheating or leaks in the cooling system.

NOTE: If OAT (MOPAR P/N 68163849AB Purple) has been mixed with HOAT (MOPAR P/N 68048953AB Pink); or Factory Fill HOAT Orange or any other coolants have been mixed, it will be necessary to flush the cooling system.

That is not the ONLY antifreeze you can use. The one I listed above is made for 2013 and newer FCA vehicles and is OAT as well. A hell of a lot easier to find to.

 

[Edwards]

Just put the valve in and I used the Harbor Freight clamps as intended - to stop coolant from running out while I put the valve in. How have I made it this far in life without those clamps? Lost so little coolant it's not even worth messing with. Will definitely bleed the system for the burp I introduced but wow was that quick and easy!

 

[RBRK]

What valve is everyone using?

 

[Edwards]

What valve is everyone using?

Same one @KcRay used. I paid a little more to get it in stock and done today.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/murray-climate-control-4379/air-conditioning-16770/heater-control-valve-12445/bec7acaa888e/murray-climate-control-shut-off-valve/84706/4522986?q=84706&pos=0

 

[Edwards]

Two other tips:

1. If you look at the Murray valve it has a higher and a lower port. I mounted it with the lower towards the water pump to eliminate any rubbing of the valve body against the other heater hose. Just noticed @KcRay did the same so that makes him smarter than we already thought he was.
2. Headed on a trip so I needed to get'r done. The truck was not hot but not cool either. I tested by grabbing the hard metal line the heater hose in question is on and it wasn't too hot. I bring this up as mine seemed glued on like others have reported but I think the heat helped break it free fairly easy by just twisting on it by hand. Whole project took ~4 minutes?

 

[ColoradoCub]

I was up in the mountains fishing yesterday at about 10,000 ft. Temperature was 80 ish most of the day. About 4:30 pm we had a nasty thunderstorm come through and we got wet before we could get back to the truck. Temp dropped to 50 degrees. As soon as I got back to the truck I popped the hood and spun the valve like 3 turns from closed and then closed the hood and jumped in the truck and fired it up. Had heat inside within a few minutes, my father in law was like what were you doing, I told him the deal with the AC these trucks and he just laughed.

 

[dmodem]

It's funny (and sad) that there are so many documented A/C problems, but FCA has skirted any responsibility in rectifying the issue. With autumn and cooler temps on the horizon for most of the US, I assume they're hoping the issue will subside. Nonsense.

 

[Edwards]

Two observations for those with eTorque:

1. Now that I've got over a day with the valve installed and shut off completely, I immediately noticed that the truck auto stops at virtually every light now and that's in 96* weather. Before It would not auto stop except rarely and that was after ~30 minutes of cooling down. Now it does it as often as last winter. So doing the valve leads to more gas savings.

2. An even better reason to do the valve, even if you think your truck blows cold enough without it, is because I was very pleasantly surprised that when the truck does auto stop, it KEEPS BLOWING COOL AIR. Now this is not the same as AC on blowing cold but everyone with eTorque knows that sensation of the HVAC system starting to blow warm, humid air after ~20 seconds after a stop. Well even in 96* heat, mine was just blowing cool air (cooler than what's in the cabin) for 3 minutes at a stop with the engine off!

I think this is also proof of a blend door issue because while I loved eTorque in the winter, I'd been turning it off more and more in the summer heat. Now with the valve installed, it's great again and there's virtually no sacrifice in comfort when using it. I'd always thought the humid air (when the AC was shut off) was primarily from the evaporator warming up. In these Rams, it's from the heater core.

 

[ColoradoCub]

Two observations for those with eTorque:

1. Now that I've got over a day with the valve installed and shut off completely, I immediately noticed that the truck auto stops at virtually every light now and that's in 96* weather. Before It would not auto stop except rarely and that was after ~30 minutes of cooling down. Now it does it as often as last winter. So doing the valve leads to more gas savings.

2. An even better reason to do the valve, even if you think your truck blows cold enough without it, is because I was very pleasantly surprised that when the truck does auto stop, it KEEPS BLOWING COOL AIR. Now this is not the same as AC on blowing cold but everyone with eTorque knows that sensation of the HVAC system starting to blow warm, humid air after ~20 seconds after a stop. Well even in 96* heat, mine was just blowing cool air (cooler than what's in the cabin) for 3 minutes at a stop with the engine off!

I think this is also proof of a blend door issue because while I loved eTorque in the winter, I'd been turning it off more and more in the summer heat. Now with the valve installed, it's great again and there's virtually no sacrifice in comfort when using it. I'd always thought the humid air (when the AC was shut off) was primarily from the evaporator warming up. In these Rams, it's from the heater core.

You are absolutely correct. Before I put the valve in or when I have it open E-Torque start stop is like a sick joke. If it were to shut off at every stop my truck would never cool down with high 50’s from the vents and then warmer air blowing every time you stop. Horrible AC system, worst I’ve ever owned out of dozens of new vehicles. Thank god for the valve hack mod

 

[ldoh]

You are absolutely correct. Before I put the valve in or when I have it open E-Torque start stop is like a sick joke. If it were to shut off at every stop my truck would never cool down with high 50’s from the vents and then warmer air blowing every time you stop. Horrible AC system, worst I’ve ever owned out of dozens of new vehicles. Thank god for the valve hack mod

Yep. Yet another anecdotal proof our a/c systems aren't as FCA originally planned. The amount of heat coming through the windows, in-dash heater core, and possible radiating from a previously heat soaked interior overwhelms the a/c system. Not until you hit the open road with RPMs, cabin air circulation, and time does the imbalance have a chance to change. Thank goodness for the a/c hot water valve hack.